Our 1965 Chevelle had some pretty nice doors, but they were hiding some rust pinholes that we knew would be problematic later. The last thing we wanted was to finish this car and have it start bubbling with rust spots, so we elected to do the right thing and replace the door skins. This allowed us to not only have fresh, crisp, new OPGI skins, but also to sandblast and epoxy paint the inner structures to make sure they didn't rust again. In this installment, we show the tricks to proper doorskin removal. The next chapter will show the install procedure.


In this video, we install a new set of doorskins on our 1965 Chevelle. These new, rust-free, arrow-straight skins came from OPGI, and when installed properly, are a quick and relatively easy way to renew an old set of doors. We prepped our inner structure by treating it to a complete sandblasting and a bath in PPG DP90 epoxy primer. We then did a little work to the skin to get it ready, then we used a 3M Automix doorskin adhesive to bond the skin to the inner structure. The trickiest part is working the new doorskin over the inner structure, but we used a cool tool from Dent Fix to power the flange over smoothly and quickly.


All the body filler on our 1965 Chevelle project has been block-sanded straight, bringing the car one step closer to paint application. The next step is to apply several coats of Standox Sprayable Polyester .. a high-build sprayable body filler intended to fill any pinholes or sanding scratches in the body filler layer below. Tiny pinholes and sanding scratches can be barely detectable in filler, but they become magnified under the shiny paint and clear coat of final paint, so it's crucial to take whatever steps you can to eliminate them from the car's surface before spraying paint. We applied several coats of the Standox product, which leaves a highly textured surface when hardened, which might appear to be a step backwards in the straightening process. However, most of what you see here will all be block-sanded off, leaving a solid white layer of perfectly smooth substrate ready for the final application of primer before paint. When properly sanded, the poly leaves no traces of pinholes or spreader marks, and it sands smoothly with minimal effort. But you'll see the whole block sanding process in the next chapter of our '65 Chevelle.


Choosing a color for your project can be tricky. Our 1971 Oldsmobile "S71" Project was originally Viking Blue with white stripes, but we wanted to jazz it up a bit with some Warp Speed Blue and Snowstorm White stripes from the DuPont Hot Hues line. In this video, we take an extra fender and spray out a test panel to see how the colors looked. We also wetsand and buff the car using the 3M Trizact Perfect-It system.


The Eastwood Company is constantly bringing new restoration tools and supplies to market, and we learn about some of the latest in this video.