V8TV Forum

We've got another new project starting in the V8TV shop - an L92 / 6L80E powered 1966 Pontiac GTO. 

This 1966 GTO has seen better days, and this intro video explains the project details from start to finish, including the crazy timeline.     It kinda goes like this:   Install GM 6.2 liter L92 V8 and 6-speed 6L80E tranmission, install Air Ride Technologies Street Challenge air suspension system, upgrade the wheels, tires, and brakes.    Drive on Hot Rod Power Tour.   Disassemble entire car, replace quarter panels, repair holes in trunk floor, window ledges, fenders, and doors, paint, reassemble, and take to SEMA 2008.    Whew!

As always, we'll be bringing you every step of the build on video. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/DSCN0030.png)

WOW  This will be interesting and could start a whole new trend in PT. What car does that engine and trans come from? Is it a caddy? Looks like you will have your hands full for a while. Should be awsome to drive when your done. I like the idea of getting a bunch of miles on it before final paint. In the long run it may actually save time depending on how much reengineering you need to do afer it hits the street. Good luck and remember to eat you wheaties I think your going to need them. :)

The engine is from a 2007 Yukon, and the trans is a 2wd truck trans.    We're tracking down the trans lineage now to make sure we know what the calibration is.    We'll swing past Costco for more Wheaties today!

The original motor came out tonight...

Okay, I joined your forum to follow along.  Real interested in the fitment of that 6L80E...  Now that the 67 Camaro is almost done, we are talking about what to do with the 68 Impala, 6speed auto would be great!  This really does look like a good fit project for you.  I look forward to seeing the car on the PT, at least from Ames to Milwaukee, we have a new Grandson, so the long haul is out.  I am pretty impressed with what I have seen on your site.

Hey Thanks, 67!   I've seen shots of your car... great project.   Looks like it's going to be alot of fun to drive.    We'll consider you a resource on this GTO... you seem to have lots of first hand knowledge of these swaps!

- KO

Well, similiar to the situation you are in with the GTO, we got this one together to spend a summer driving it and finding the issues.  We have eliminated every annoyance so far, except for a minor trans issue that we had hoped to deal with already, but just have not had to time for.  Hopefully we will have time in March to rebuild the trans, and get a stronger rear into the car.  We are really worried about this open 10 bolt, and have been looking at the Strange S60.  If we can ever get the cash and time for bodywork and paint, the finished car will be Madiera Maroon with a white nose stripe, parchment interior.  The mechanicals are great and we are getting 27mpg on 92 octane!  The car is a real blast to drive, and the steering/suspension/brake work has really paid off. 

(repost from LS1tech)
Kevin,
You may want to put the mounts back on correctly and plan on moving the AC compressor up. Considering that you are already looking at changing the accesory routing, this may be the simplest mounting option for placing it nicely. Several vendors (including S&P) offer kits to relocate the AC higher on the pass side, but all are spendy. You could go ahead and fab the brackets yoursefl as well. Note how tightly the compressor will be placed at the crossmember, you may have to alter the xmember a bit to get proper clearance depending on where you finally settle the engine. Just a thought...

(new stuff)

Another thought for you about the accesories.  Have you considered going to the F-body routing?  Not sure of the budget, but I do know that Schwanke will sell you the LS1 intake/injectors/TB for $250 (with your L92 stuff in trade).  You would then need to either source the correct crank pulley/balancer, water pump, and brackets.  I know that March sells a really nice kit, and so does S&P.  Both kits would tuck the accesories in and up.  As for the computer, don't hide it, flaunt it!  Polish it up nicely and mount it prominantly.  Remember too that the L92 weighs less than the Poncho did, and even thought the trans is heavier, it is weight closer to the CG of the vehicle (and way behind the IC)!  This will help handling even if you do wind up sliding the engine forward 2 inches like you have.

Engine test fit # 1 -

67 -

The frame stands we have are from a small-block conversion someone had previously done on another car, and they were "sacrificial" for this project, so we cut 'em down to see what's up.     We'll be setting the motor and trans back in the car this weekend to see if it worked.    Because of our timeline, I'd really like to spend as little time as possible chasing parts.   If we can make our setup work properly, we'll run it and try it out.     However, we're not going to change the car around just to accomodate our parts, either.   I'm not really up for cutting the front x-member and modding it.     If that looks like the case, we'll get the F-car serp setup. 

As for the intake - it's pretty tall, but we'll make that call when the engine is bolted in.

We're looking forward to seeing how this car handles when it's all set up.      More on that later!

Thanks for the input!

- KO

Sorry to be on the late show, but this is a real  kick ass project like all of the stuff you guys do!  I'm looking forward to seeing how you guys tackle the obstacles like the drive by wire, and computer hook up.

That is truly the easy part.  Hooking up the computer is a snap (literaly).  The hardest part of these swaps is the fitment of the engine/trans, oilpan modifications (most swaps require them), and getting the accesories to clear.  Headers can be an issue in some cars as well.  Overall, not much harder than any other swap.

We did some more work on the initial test fit today.     We hope to have it closer tomorrow... we're trying to put the 7-day workweeks on the front side of this build rather than the backside.    The trans seems to hit in one particular place, but it also seems to hang a little lower than I'd like.     We'll probably post another video Monday night or so.

And thanks for the encouragement... we'll need it!   We'll try to show you all the hurdles involved with this car.   

- KO

Good news!!!  The 6L80E is tunable with the EFILive! 

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7124&page=2

 8)

I like the car but not the motor combination.  I like a Pontiac to remain  a true Pontiac.  Wheres the love.

If you think about it, this is basically an LS2 new GTO motor, but set up with the truck intake and accessory drive.    So it is more GTO than you might think!

That IS good news!   We'll have to make sure the harness is correct so we can communicate with the trans.    Cool stuff.

Interbrand swaping is nothing new at all, remember this is the origin of hotrodding. The factory's themselves have been doing this for years. From 1955 - 58 the "Pontiac"  V8 was the V8 option for GMC trucks: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC_V8_engine . The  1961 F85 Olds, Pontiac tempest, Buick special, all used the aluminum "Buick" 215 V8 this short deck nail head motor is also the exact design V8 that the british made Rover/Land Rover trucks use:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover_V8_engine . Not only that look at how the "Buick"  3800 V6 is used today in all GM vehicles from mini vans to passenger cars, that being said I personally don't see anything wrong with the goat build up. If it's cool do it!!!! ;D Now lets stick to the important issues and see this bad boy come together!

Good point, Buster.    I think it's also important to note that we're keeping the apparantly original 389 with the car, so someone could return it to stock some day.    I like to do that whenever possible... who knows, 20 years from now, '66 GTOs may be worh a million dollars with the original plant under the hood.     Just looking at Barrett-Jackson tells you that this may happen in 2 years.    At any rate, this car is being built to drive, so the owner has named it "Driven-1".

I used to get pretty stinkin' fussy about originality, but over the last several years the clones have gotten so good, they are better than the real cars.  It has gotten too damn difficult to truly know an original car, and I think the prices you are seeing on known clones and 'tributes' reflects this uncertainty.  We have finally decided to ignore originality, and build enjoyability into our cars, and a swap like this is the most enjoyable way to go.  Power, reliability, fuel economy, and the sheer wow factor all play here.  Besides, I am running accross too many supposed original, untouched cars that have been painted, carb replaced, interior redone (usually poorly), etc.  In my eyes, that is no longer original.  Some collectors even go so far as to discount any vehicle that is missing any original service items (plugs, wires, belts, battery).  On top of that, I really like modern braking, and think that even original cars from before about 67 should have a split master cylinder resevoir if it is used on the road.

I've seen a few original cars that I wouldn't mess with... and some that we are.    Take our '71 Olds - the only non original part on the car was the carb, the belts, hoses, plugs, wires, exhaust, tires, and brake pads.    And all the replacement parts were GM spec stuff.   The car even had the original clutch in it.   The problem is that it was pretty beat.    Now it's got new steel, new interior, upgraded suspension, etc., but all the original parts are staying with the car.     

OK, so after several more test fits, it looks like we're going to need the F-body accessory drive system to clear the power steering box.    We'll know more on the trans tunnel in the morning, but it looks like that getting cut as well.    The process of installing, removing, installing, removing... it's not fun to watch, so we're holding off on the video update until we have a better handle on the fit situation. 

Kevin,
Depending on the budget, you could also look into one of the aftermarket accesorie systems.  March makes on that tucks up nicely, and S&P (Street and Performance) offer many kits and brackets.  None of them are cheap by any stretch of the imagination.  Remember too that you will have to change the water pump and the balancer when you go from the truck offset to the F-body offset. 

Thanks 67 - we'll see if we can get the whole shebang in one source if we can.     Budget is a concern, and so is ease of installation and the ability to service it down the line.

No problem.  Also, the balancer is a real PITA if you know what I mean.  Make sure you verify the install procedure either with a factory amnual, or from a Haynes/Chilton type manual.  I also strongly suggest you get a new bolt.  They are not expensive, but like most of the bolts on these things they are meant to be used once.  You will need a flywheel turning tool to keep the engine from rotating while you cahnge the balancer.  They are cheap, and the screwdriver trick really doesn't work well...

Lot of ideas between pages 80 and 105 on the S&P catalog, but I reccomend you call Mark or Tom at S&P and discuss your project.  Maybe you only need to relocate the P/S or use a different unit to get it to work.  That would be a LOT cheaper than moving everything.  Just a thought...

Can you just use a different power steering bracket setup and not the rest?   I dunno.   I've pulled balancers off these things before, but not installed one, personally.     I'll have to look into getting a good install tool.    Did you just use the bolt?   I'm not sure if that works.

Mark at S&P is aware of our project.    We got the engine plates and the oil pan from them, along with the fuel filter.

What did you do for your fuel system?    I think you used a Rock Valley tank, right?

Don't forget that the f-body setup puts the alternator low and tight on the driver side...
(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/632943539.jpg) (http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery.php?action=viewimg&id=43539)


Glad to know that Mark is up to speed on your project.  They really do know a lot over there.  As for our fuel system, as you saw in the fluids hookup, we used the 99 corvette regulator/filter assembly and an intank LS1 style pump.  The pump, custom stainless tank, and sender are from Rock Valley ($1200, 5 weeks).  I know that a lot of people are modifying (new reproduction) stock tanks to work.  I think TANKS inc. has a kit for doing this.  Check on LS1tech for info on modifying tanks.  I know that Schitzo moded his own before there were kits to do it.  Since you know how to weld, you will save a ton of time and cash modding a repro tank for your project.  Repop tanks run about $130.  The temptation to use an external pump is very high, but avoid it.  They are noisy and have a shorter lifespan.  The fuel provides a lot of cooling benefit.  I do believe that Aeromotive also has an in tank setup, but like everything they sell, it is pricey.

Technically, you are supposed to use a fancy tool for putting the balancer back on, but several people have used the old bolt to slide it on, and then tightened it with the new bolt.  I am not recomending that, just noting that it has been done...

Thanks for the info.    I've done the external pump trick on efi swaps before, but we ended up with a fuel slosh issue.    We used an OE Bosch pump and it's been churning for nearly 20k miles, but you're not happy if the level falls below 1/4 tank.

We'll probably do a repro tank with an in-tank pump.   I'll do more research on that.

The low alternator seems to be a potential problem on the GTO as the steering box is right there.    We're considering a possible rack and pinion, but I don't think there's much room for headers and steering shaft that way.   

A lot of the intank kits have a "basket" to help with sloch.  In fact, the only reason I did the stainless tank is all the baffling since my wife hates to put gas in the vehicles and runs them right to the end.  Before you jump on the "rack-n-peanut" steering, take a look at other A-body swaps.  I know there are a few on the site, and most of them are LS1's.  How close is the P/S resevoir?  It is pretty big on the truck routing.  THe alternator on the f-body routing is pretty tightly mounted.  The corvette routing with the seperate P/S resevoir may also work for you.  I would definately give Mark a call, it may be as simple as changing you pump assembly to a divorved pump/resevoir setup.

I get your drift on the rack and pinion setup.     I like the original steering box and I really like the Saginaw pump on the engine, but we'll have to see what we can make work.   

I've seen multiple fuel pickups used in stock tanks that work OK, and also surge or slosh tanks.    But I want to keep this one simple!   (if you can believe that!)

Particularly since he actually wants to drive it!  I have heard and read some positive feedback with the baskets, but it isn't positive low level control like welded baffles.  Unfortunately, you may or may not have the time for a full custom tank.  A lot of testing has to happen with the fuel supply.  We got very lucky though, and our tank was a week early.  Just trying to keep things moving, and trying to keep from spending all your customers cash...

On the S&P site there is a 65 Chevelle build that has the F-Body accesories and it looks like itclears, but they changed everything over to a new routing scheme.  The build is at http://216.25.99.66/Streetstories/65ls1chevelle.pdf
They used A on pages 86 and 87, for the truck engines, this is $1840.00.

Looks like a lotta work to get all the details figured out to make this puppy run and fit right...  As Kevin stated - I plan to DRIVE this car!

I have started my own website for it - www.driven-1.com

I'm eagerly awaiting for the next video blog to show some more progress.  8)

There are alot of details to chase, but we're making it all come together.    We've got some new insight on the steering system today as well as some fuel system possibilities.     Much more to come!

Kevin, here is the cheapest correct tool for damper install I have found.  For $44, you can't go wrong...
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391883

That's cool.   We have a pretty good puller / installer set, I'll have to make sure it has the thread pitch of the LS1.   Thanks for finding and posting that one.. I'll look into it.   

We're in the shop today working on fitting the engine and trans.    The current setup puts the power steering pulley right through the steering box, which brings up a coupe scenarios.    The first is that the owner originally wanted a rack & pinion setup for this car, but we were hesitant because of the time frame being short.     I didn't want to get into a steering / clearance fabrication nightmare.     I also don't like some conversions using a rack that is designed for a car weighing 2000lbs less than the GTO, and the bump-steer issues that can go along with improper tie rod length and geometry. 

Coincidentally, we Eric from Speed Direct contacted us about using their Steeroids rack and pinion setup on the car.    They already have the '68-'72 conversions available, but they wanted to expand their line into the '64-'67 range and though this would also help our clearance issue.     We've seen their conversions before an like how they use a rack capable of steering heavy cars and that they're conscious of proper geometry and tie rod length to reduce bumpsteer.      They sent some pics over to show the clearance, and it looks like there will be a ton of room even if we use the current belt setup, so we're going to test and see how it all fits together.       More to come on this part!

We're open to suggestions on the shifter...
(http://www.hotrodlane.cc/x15r.jpg)

So I'm assuming we'll need something from a Corvette or a floor-shift Caddy, seeing that all the trucks are column shift, right?

Wow, this is a huge transmission.

Here's some shots of another test fit from under the car... the top of the trans is 1/4 inch from touching the floor of the car.     The trans has to go up at least another 4.5 inches to bring the bottom of the pan to 1" below the frame.     Then, the output shaft is up higher than usual, so the trans tunnel and the drive shaft tunnel have to be cut out to make room.    Next comes possible issues with the engine / trans angle... the engine may have to go up in the front to allow for the trans to pitch down towards the rear axle, making the engine / hood clearance too tight.    Hmmm...

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0034.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0035.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0036.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0037.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0038.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0039.png)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/media2/DSCN0040.png)

Is it that the accessories would be too high causing your tight hood clearances?  If so, could you use a cu$tom accessory drive?

Anything is possible... it just has to fit the timeline and budget!       ;D

Kevin, how do you guys feel about a custom trans tunnel?  The 6 speed autos are huge!

We're more concerned with making not only a custom trans tunnel, but also a driveshaft tunnel running all the way back.     See how low the trans pan is?    Most transmissions have the pan flush with the bottom of the bellhousing.    This one hangs another 2" down.   I don't dig that, especially on a car that's going to have an air suspension system and can be lowered all the way down.     So in order to get the trans pan high enough, we'll have to elevate the trans - and the engine - up another 4 - 5 inches at least.    That's going to affect the output of the trans and the driveshaft, the floor, the rear seat, etc., etc.... we're considering some other options at this point.     And we don't want to do a ton of custom work, cut up the car, and then find out that the 6-speed may not be the right choice for a musclecar.      You know?   The we'd have to un-do all that work just to put a traditional GM auto back in the car.     

May not be anywhere near as cool, but a 4L80E fits pretty nicely with just a few reliefs in the tunnel.  A T56 6speed would also fit nicely, and is a LOT of fun to drive in an older car.  The hydraulic setup isn't fun, but it isn't hard either.  Had not considered the drop on the pan, wonder it there will be an aftermarket solution to that issue in the near future?  I can imagine a remote resevoir type scheme, or a pan that swings wide, or something along that line.  The car based 6 speed auto for rear wheel apps isn't available yet, but when it is, it will make this a moot point.

Yeah, we'll have to see.    It's not only the pan, but the bottom of the trans itself.   That's the part that brings the pan so low.    You're right, a dry-sump could work.    We've got some ideas....  ;)

Ok, we're ready to hear your total and complete solution to this present issue.  You've HAD a whole day!!! ;)

In an A body, I am still not seeing any decent way around some tunnel mods.  Overall, it could be cool, but damn that thing is big.  You sure a 4L80E with a gear vendors (8SPEEDS!!!!) wouldn't be a better call?

67 - You're on to my thinking.     It looks like we're going to shift gears  ::)  and move to a 4L65E to start with, and then work with Bowler Transmission, Twist Machine, and Gear Vendors to bring 8 gears in a package that fits the car better.      It's going to be killer.    We'll post a new blog on the story tomorrow.    The saga continues!

This really explains why the only 6 speed auto swaps I have seen have been in pick-up trucks.  Ground clearance is a wonderful thing.  Hope the customer understands that he is a hair early in adopting the 6 speed, but when the rear wheel drives show up with them, things will be good!  Wonder what we will be able to come up with when the two-mode hybrids start flooding the junkyards?  Could be pretty cool!

I understand!  I want a totally functional car and a FUN car...  Kevin and the V8TV team have been awesome to work with thru all this fun stuff.

We talked today and made the decision on our new direction.

Lookin forward to the next blog and progress!!  8)

We've test fitted, measured, scratched our heads, tested again, looked at the calendar, scratched our heads again... and we've determined that the 6L80E, while cool, is not going to fit this car in the timeframe required.   The trans is just too big, and the amount of surgery needed is going to take a long time, and then it would take just as long to un-do if the trans didn't live up to expectations.       

So we talked to Mark Bowler at Bowler Performance Transmissions about his upcoming project... a collaboration with Bowler, Twist Machine, and Gear Vendors to create an 8-speed 4L65E auto that can be paddle-shifted (is Shrifted a word?) up and down through 8 gears.    Sounds cool to us, and it actually fits in the car!      So the story changes a little, but moves 2 gears ahead!

put a 4L80 e in it. out of a 94-96 imp ss

The 4L80 is cool, but it takes alot to spin it, and it also is another large trans...   I think Bowler has some new tricks coming for the 4L80 guys, too.   

i see. only if they made a th400e trans for the ls1 engines than everything would be good!!!!

Any more news?   :o

There is lots of news.   The Bowler Performance 4L65E has just arrived, ad did the Air Ride Technologies Street Challenge suspension system.     We plan on getting alot done this weekend!

Any updates to add, Kevin? Video to dazzle us?

New video later today, actually!

Outstanding!

We received our new 4L65E transmission from Bowler Performance Transmissions the other day, and now the progress on the GTO continues...

That looks to be a great solution!  I'm eager to see it mounted and to see what alterations for thecross member have to be done. 

Our next challenge is the alternator height... but I think we've got a solution there, too.     More to come!

How about that "super top secret" chassis coating?  You are teasing us with what you are doing with the Chevelle... now let's see the GTO!

The "top secret" chassis coating is coming.      We've got new video posting on the GTO in the next couple days.    The project is coming along well.... here's a teaser...

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/L92Chassis.jpg)

MORE MORE MORE!!!  The frame looks pretty sexy being all cleaned up like that!  Got another teaser??   ;D

Here's the latest on the GTO... we had to do a little homework to get the long-nosed L92 VVT engine to accept a stock Camaro style alternator and power steering bracket to clear the hood...

Part of our 1966 GTO's plan includes a killer suspension system and a beefed-up chassis to support it, so we disassembled the stock stuff,  popped the body off the frame, and went to town.   First, the GTO's skeleton was media blasted clean of all rust, scale, and old paint.   Next, we fabbed up some supports and TIG welded in some plate steel to box up the originally open frame rails for strength.    Then we began to test fit the Air Ride Technologies Street Challenge suspension system... more on this later, but it's the key to making this old Goat handle like a new 'Vette!

Looking good Kevin!  Is there any problems that you see in getting the car up and running for the Hot Rod Power Tour?

 8)

I hope not!    I don't really want to say, because whatever I predict will go smoothly will come back to get us later!     We're waiting on some parts, but we still seem to be on track. 

I've really been enjoying this build, Kevin.  Keep up the great work.  By the way, nice work on Kellie's truck!

We sprayed the GTO's chassis with some new coatings from Eastwood... their high-build 2-part Epoxy Primer and then their new Ceramic Chassis Black.   Both are catalyzed chemicals that spray out really nicely and the Ceramic Chassis Black dries to a velvety satin sheen.    It's intended to have strong chemical and chip resistance, which is what we want considering that this car is meant to be driven! 


 Eastwood Ceramic Chassis Black (http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=21986&itemType=PRODUCT)

The GTO is now under all-hands-on-deck status... we're getting it ready to drive on the Hot Rod Power Tour with a delivery date of 6/1... that's like 27 days and 12 hours... it won't be a perfectly painted show car, but it will have the chassis and driveline finished and ready to rock.   The body will be a cool satin 2-tone for the trip.    The goal then is to shake it down, then bring it back to the shop for final bodywork and paint for SEMA.    We'll have to replace the quarters, trunk floors, and some footwells.     So for now, follow along for daily updates until June first to see if we make it.     Here we go again!

Quick shot of the "temporary" paint scheme... it's going to get a silver stripe at the color break, and then it stays un-cleared for the Power Tour and the CC Nats.    Then it comes back here to have the quarters and floors ripped out and a "real" paint job!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/DSCN0569s.jpg)

After seeing the Air Ride Technologies 1966 Chevelle thrash the autocross at the Run Through The Hills III event, we were sold on the outstanding handling AND smooth ride of the Air Ride Street Challenge suspension system.    This time, we build the front 1/2 of this system on our '66 GTO.     We're still pushing to get this car on the road for the Hot Rod Power Tour in less than a month.

That is lookin pretty kick azz man!

So when will this thing be driving?

We hope to be driving this thing pretty soon!    We're waiting on a few more parts, headers, wheels, tires, etc., but everything else seems to be shaking out OK.     Here's the latest:

man Kev, these windows are being so complicated. my vote, we keep em off, i mean they'll be down most of the time. it would be nice to not fight with a window, like i did, and i lost.

Good try, Brett, but they're going in!     

(Brett Frazier is a new V8TV crew member who's not fond of window installs!)

- KO

New seats for the old Goat!

Nice seats in there!  So are they heated too?

New Magnaflow pipes now run through the reverse light holes in the bumper.... keeps the back and lower part of the car real smooth!

The good news is that the GTO finally came to life!     The Mast Motorsports controlled L92 sounds really sweet.   We're thrashing to get some brake issues fixed and waiting for tires, but we should be driving it today.    Lots more video coming!

Very good!  I can't wait to see it in action!

The GTO is finally as finished as it's gonna get for Power Tour... here's a couple snap shots.   Lots more video to come on the build and driving it... hard!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0967s.JPG)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0996s.JPG)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0983s.JPG)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0968s.JPG)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0957s.JPG)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/GTOGallery/DSCN0943s.JPG)

Here's a quick shot of the MAST CAN gauges...
(http://driven-1.com/images/slidehow-dashgages.jpg)

(http://driven-1.com/images/gto-low-front-slide.jpg)

I just got word from the car's owner, Stefan, that the GTO ran 13.40s at 108 with massive wheelspin on the Power Tour during its first drag strip pass.    Heck, it only has 300 miles on it total!    With some traction and tuning, I think the mid-high 12s are not far off.    The L92 with VVT is nice!

That's great!  Where the hell are the rest of the build videos?!!!!!!!!

Sheesh, tough crowd!    We're getting time to edit the rest together... they're coming.     I promise!

Great job!  I live about 20 miles from Spring Green and the Power Tour is going through on Friday. I am going to try and get to the Culvers  and watch a bunch of the cars passing  through town. Maybe I can get alook at the 66. I hope the roads are all good since we got hammerd hard by rain/storms last week end and some roads are closed.

Catching up on some of the install videos on the GTO... here's the Air Ride MuscleBar sway bars  and PosiLinks articulating end links on the GTO's front suspension.    The links are cool, they keep the bar rigid but also prevent binding.   These are 2 key elements making an air-equipped car handle well, but they will also work on traditionally sprung cars.

I wanted to amend Kevin's post - I did run a 13.4 at 106.9 MPH.  There was wheelspin all the way thru 1st and 2nd gear - in second I was modulating the throttle to get it to hook...

then I was shifting manually, as the current trans tune would shift a bit early at WOT, and on the 2-3 shift I hit it a little late, so I lifted off the throttle totally to let it shift then got back on it.

It was only my 2nd time ever down the 1/4 mile, and the first time was just a few min earlier in the GTO... but that was just plain a bad run so I don't want to talk much about it, other than I was low on fuel.   ::)

At the last stop of the tour I put the car up on the Dynomax dyno.  Two quick runs from 4000-6000rpm netted 346HP and 366TQ at the rear wheels.

The car scoots out nicely and I averaged 18-20MPG for the power tour.  My best tank was 25.3MPG and the worst was 11.  Most of the tanks were in the 17-18-19MPG range.

Keep in mind any time I floor the car there is fuel that sloshes out of the fuel filler neck- so I'm sure that cost me a little in the MPG department.

Here's the rear Air Ride Technologies Street Challenge suspension system install and the Currie 9+ rear axle housing... overall, a nice, easy, bolt-in installation!    (We elected to do a little welding, but you don't have to!)

The GTO came to us in primer, but we didn't want it to hit the streets on the Hot Rod Power Tour in boring light gray.    So the decision was made to shoot the car with a fun 2-tone paint scheme of charcoal and Scarlet red in PPG basecoat to give the car an aggressive, satin look.   Other materials used include lots of 3M tape and mask paper.   Someday the car will receive some new bodywork and a more complete paint job, but this is the deal for now. 

Hey folks.  I've never posted at V8TV before, but I've been watching many of the projects for well over a year.  I'm glad to be here!

I was wondering if/when some of the later '66 GTO videos are going to posted.  Is there a first fire-up, or first-drive video?  I'd love to see more, as I own a '66 GTO, too, and have taken some good info from this project to use on my own car.

Cheers.

Hey there!

We are going to post more GTO videos... we have several "on-deck" that we need to finish editing.     We'll try to get them up this month. 

Thanks for checking in!

- Kevin

Thanks for the update, Kevin!  I look forward to seeing the final stages of the '66 GTO build, and I certainly appreciate all the background work that goes into editing/posting all these videos.  I know it can at times seem overwhelming when so many other things need attention. 

Yeah, with multiple projects and events to cover things can stack up.    Plus we like to make sure the important items are included in the videos, so there's alot of "sifting".      Much more to come!

- KO

Kevin,

I am real curious on how your crew modified the seat brackets to fit the new GTO seats. I have watched that segment a dozen times, but I was hoping for some detailed photos?

Thanks,

Chris

Assembling the GTO's Currie 9+ Crate Rear Axle... which does not take long.    Ours has a 3.89:1 gear, a Detroit TrueTrac differential, 31 spline axles, and Wilwood brakes, and it all came in one package from Currie. 

Dropping the body back on the frame...

The buckets we used are from a 2004 GTO, and we had to make some mounts to bolt them to the floor, but it was not that big of a deal.   The important part was to make a "cage", a steel bracket that supported the stud attached to the floor which spreads the load around in case of an impact.   This way, if the car gets hit, the seat is retained by more than just the stud, and more importantly, the single hole in the sheetmetal floor.   This can tear easily and the seat can rip out of the floor.     Here's a couple snapshots... they're not that great, but I hope they help.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66GTO5.28.08su/66GTO5.20.08_s_009.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66GTO5.28.08su/66GTO5.20.08_s_010.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66GTO5.28.08su/66GTO5.20.08_s_011.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66GTO5.28.08su/66GTO5.20.08_s_019.jpg)

Now I see how it works, I was thinking it was reinforced from the bottom, but the "cage" idea makes sense.

Thanks for the extra close-ups.

Chris

No problem, Chris.   Wish I had better ones for you.    How's your project?   Got pics?

We've checked around for the '66 - '67 GTO full quarter panels, but the repros still aren't available.    Anyone know anything?

Hi Kevin.  Where/when did you check?  I'm seeing full reproduction quarter panels for '66 GTOs at OPGI and Year one.

Did you call them or just check the catalog?

I'll call OPGI again in the morning.   Sometimes they show them as being available before they are ready.   It would be great if they're shipping now!

I looked them up on their respective web pages.  And unless I'm overlooking something major, they appear to be exactly what you're looking for, and not just skins or partials.  Pretty much the same deal you used on the '65 Chevelle.

On the Year One website, I took the following route to find them:

Year One Home-> GTO-> Body-> Quarter Panels-Full-> Part number FP566LH (driver side) & FP566RH (passenger side).

Or you can buy part number FP566LHRH and get both the driver & passenger side for a very slight discount (of only a few dollars).

Here's the install of the Mast Motorsports (http://www.mastmotorsports.com) M90 ECM and their killer CAN gauge setup... very nice stuff.    We really liked the way the gauges connect with a simple harness, and how you can scroll through the master gauge's LCD to see most of the ECM datastreams realtime.   Cool.   

Any word on whether or not those full quarters at Year One or OPGI are the real deal?

We heard that OPGI is still waiting on them.   Don't know about Y1.   

I just downloaded the most current 2009 copy of the Ames GTO catalog a few days ago, which also states that the full rear quarters for '66 GTOs were in tooling at the time of the catalogs publication, and to inquire on availability/price if interested.  I wonder if they have any more info on them by now.  Either way, it sounds like they're about to become available, thus making my life (and yours) much easier!

Time will tell my man, time will tell. 

Here's the video on the TCI Transmission Control Unit.. it's a very user-friendly system that allows you to completely tune and tailor your electronic transmission to your liking.   We used it to dial in the GTO's 4L65E automatic.   Watch the video to learn more!

The last step in the Air Ride Street Challenge suspension system for the GTO...

A new post on the '66 GTO!  Excellent.

I can hardly wait to (hopefully) see more videos of it driving.  I'm interested to see how the powetrain behaves on the road, and how well it juggles both long-haul driving and drag strip duty.

We've got driving footage (and burnout stuff!) coming.    The car drives great.    Stay tuned!

Fantastic.  Can't wait to see burnouts!

I just found a Spike TV video that shows them using a full quarter replacement on a '66 GTO.  Perhaps they really exist now!  Otherwise, the restoration is somewhat dubious, and the show, like all programming on Spike TV, is embarrassingly over-produced and gimmicky.  They don't provide any technical information about the panel itself (like how accurate the fit was, how much prep work it needed, who they ordered it from, etc.)  The finished car is a mixture of good (Hotchkiss and TriPower) and bad (Bling'tastic wheels and over-the-top stereo system).  Anyhow, I thought you would be interested to see physical proof of full replacement quarters for '66 GTOs.

Check out the video here:
http://www.spike.com/full-episode/slumdog-pontiac/32051 (http://www.spike.com/full-episode/slumdog-pontiac/32051)

Wow, thanks for forewarding that along.     I'll check out the video when I have a few minutes.    We're supposed to get the GTO back later this summer, and the quarters would be nice.

They cover the quarter replacement within the first segment of the show, so I'd stop watching as soon as you reach the first commercial, unless you wish to subject yourself to all that is wrong with contemporary television programming.

Unfortunately, they don't mention who they ordered the panel from, but we can safely assume it was from one of only a few possible companies...

HOLY CATS, I had to stop the video after they showed the panel.   I did go back to watch the whole thing to see how it turned out..

First off Ze - that's not a "full" quarter, it's a skin panel that does not go to the roof or through the door jambs.     These skins are already installed on our '66, but did you notice where the guy was sandblasting in the rear window sail panel area?   That's rusty on our '66 also, and the full quarters are needed to properly repair that area.   The only panels that go through the roof are NOS or take-offs from another car.     Rumors still float, but I still have not seen 'em yet. 

As for the video... nobody except the sandblaster had any safety gear... using sanders, grinders, and other wheels with no safety glasses?    Are you kidding me?     No gloves around solvents?   One guy had a mask on, but that's it. 

This looked to be a prime example of a quickie flip-job of a car.      Breaking windows while preparing panels?      No prep work / disassembly?     Quick MIG / Grind panel with no fitment finesse?   That's how the "pros" do it, I'll tell ya.    And look closely... they're spreading filler all over the passenger side quarter panel BEFORE they reveal they had to replace it... they're using the shot from AFTER the quarter panel install, but they already bagged on body filler, so they can't use it in sequence.     Cutting a panel with an air chisel with no glasses... not a good idea.   

Nice info about the brake system... the guy had never done a brake install before, so he's a good example.     No info about how / what / why they chose what they used.     No info about safety concerning brakes.    Just pull these cotter pins and hit something with a hammer and a pickle fork, drop on "this", and you're good to go!     Awesome!

YO!   Pick up your pants!   (That message was brought to you by HTP Welders)

Don't clean your car with wax / grease remover without wearing gloves... your hands will put all the oil and dirt right back in the paint...   And 14 coats of paint, huh?    Is that including all the primers, sealers, basecoats, and clears?   'Cause I don't think you'd want people to think that a particular paint needs 14 coats of basecoat to cover.    With the properly selected sealer color (which they looked like they had a blue) - most paints will hide / cover really well with 4-6 coats of color.    Paint ain't cheap... 14 coats?  I'm sure you can get great results with Dupli-Color with less.   

Painter spraying with no suit, eye protection, or gloves?     WTF?!??!   These are new levels of irresponsible... I can't imagine the insurance policy riding on this show to cover Spike's ass over lawsuits when people get injured / sick / cancer / die from these practices.    Plus all the dirt in the paint that goes along with it.    I'm sure Dupli-Color is really happy about showing the public these methods.     Be safe, live to paint again.   

I just gotta say that these kinds of shows really don't help anyone.. they mislead the public into thinking that restoration work is quick, cheap, and easy, and that resto techs are a bunch of coarse individuals with limited vocabularies.  Funk Master Flex is a very cool guy and a real enthusiast, but this kind of stuff is a let-down.      I don't like to bad-mouth anything, but it's a disservice to enthusiasts to just hack together a car and blow through the details and lead everyone to believe that's all it takes to build a magazine feature car.      There was about a million hours of stuff you didn't see in this build.     

Sorry for the rant.. but I know what it takes to build the car AND do the show... you'll notice that comments have been disabled on the video... you'll never see that here.   

Bah, I should have caught on that it was only a skin!  Sorry for getting your hopes up!

Unfortunately, most people who haven't restored anything probably won't see anything wrong with their safety standards, thinking that's just how normal restorations go.  I noticed how unsafe they were as soon as I saw the daughter "clapping" the body filler dust from her sanding block directly onto her unprotected face...  How terrible!  I bet she'd ask for a respirator pretty fast if she read the MSDS from Bondo.  And of course, that was just the tip of the iceberg.

I used to work in the exhibits department of a natural history museum where I used all sorts of different materials and substances (wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass, numerous resins, paints and other finishes, etc...).  Even something as seemingly benign as sawdust can be toxic when inhaled.  We spent HUGE dollars to have us all protected from airborne contaminants in the shop, and it was worth every penny.

After I stopped working at the museum and finished college, I moved to NYC and began doing cancer research at NYU, which definitely reaffirmed just how important protecting oneself from the hazards of restoration work is.  Now I cringe at the thought of being anywhere near those substances without full protection, head to toe.

In this installment, the 1966 GTO's L92 V8 finally comes to life!    Once we had our Magnaflow exhaust system connected to the polished ceramic Hooker LS1 A-Body swap headers, we topped off the fluids with Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Oil,  MAX ATF Transmission fluid, and Purple Ice radiator additive.   We didn't want to risk anything, and the protection of Royal Purple against heat, friction, wear, and moisture gave us peace of mind.    Plus the reduced friction frees up power.    We run Royal Purple in every car we build and drive.    But the real challenge was finding the little electrical gremlin that kept the MAST -powered ignition system from firing.    It was our fault, and when we fixed it, it came to life in the push of a start button.    The GTO runs and sounds fantastic!

Kudos to MAST for being so helpful.  It sounds like they went above and beyond regarding technical support.  It's also really awesome that you can simply e-mail tuning configurations back & forth, have them double-checked by MAST, etc.

I'm not very surprised you ran into a speed bump with the headers.  These cars are surprisingly tight down there.  Altogether, it looks like your method of adaptation wasn't terribly tricky.

Look what turned up on YouTube!  Look familiar?

Toward the end of the video, the cameraman says "Looks like Chip Foose designed it."  Ha!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G9PT-MyAf0#noexternalembed (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G9PT-MyAf0#noexternalembed)

So now that it's been driven for a while and is due back for bodywork this summer, will the car look different after the body is redone, or will it have approximately the same appearance when all is said and done?

That's a cool vid.. thanks for posting that one up.   As you can tell, the GTO is out being driven around and the owner isn't pulling any punches.    When we get it back, we're going to fix a bunch of little things that cropped up during the shake down period, then we're going to fix some bodywork and finish the car off.   There's some talk of a MAST cam swap as well.    The car has gone 13.0s at around 108 with bigtime wheelspin and the shocks and air suspension not really dialed in, so we're looking forward to wringing it out at the track.   We also want to play with shift points and firmness.    I just got some Hermance renderings of the car.. I'll see if the owner thinks it's cool to post 'em up, but I don't think the overall look is going to change that much.

The most recent video says/shows the push button start.  Did you use the ISIS setup for this car?  If so, how did it work out? Finding any glitches in the setup or operation?

Best Wishes,

Keith

13.0 @ 108mph isn't exactly slow, either.  I'm kind of surprised/impressed to learn that it'll probably run deep into the 12s once the suspension and transmission are dialed in.

We ran a traditional wiring setup in the car.   The push button start was a simple deal.. just wire the button to be hot when the ignition is on, then have it close the starter engagement when pressed.    It worked out pretty well.   The button was just an old automotive button we had in the shop.

Yeah, it runs really well.     The engine tune is good for over 425 HP, and with the variable valve timing it really comes alive when you mash the pedal!   With drag radials and the tweaks we mentioned above, I'm sure mid 12s should not be a problem.   

Here's some new renderings done by Ben Hermance suggesting the final look of the '66 GTO - DRIVEN1.    Which do you like?

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66_GTO_Renderings_s/66_GTO_Renderings_s_001CONCEPT1.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66_GTO_Renderings_s/66_GTO_Renderings_s_002CONCEPT2.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66_GTO_Renderings_s/66_GTO_Renderings_s_003CONCEPT3.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66_GTO_Renderings_s/66_GTO_Renderings_s_004CONCEPT4.jpg)

Great renderings by Hermance!  I'm heading away from the computer right now, but I'll definitely be back later this evening to write up my ideas for each of the different configurations.  Until then...

I like number 1 but with the rims from number 4 and the nose treatment from 3 (solid grey around the grill all the way to the hood).

Instead of picking one of the four concepts straight up, I chose elements from a few and came up with this.  We'll call it Concept 5, if you will...

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b103/k_freese/gtoedit.jpg)

FULL DISCLOSURE: what you're about to read sounds like dictation, but is nothing more than my humble opinion.  I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes, especially Ben Hermance, who does incredible work.  We all have our own set of preferences and thoughts about how things should look.  This is my individual take on it.   ;D

Anyway, my iteration is pretty close to Hermance's Concept 1, but I think chromed bumpers are vital if you're going to have a gray two-tone car, so I switched them back.  Having the bumpers brushed, or painted body color (either matte or gloss) will make the car look dull to the point of distraction, especially with the rocker and wheel arch trim removed as it is.  I always thought the finish currently on the bumpers (albeit darker than these new renderings) looked off, and in serious need of some chrome.

I also changed the header panel to be solid gray.  While I do think painting the header panel gray is a good idea (it's necessary to maintain the "waistline" of the color scheme), I didn't like the color break toward the top of the header panel in Concept 1.  It looked too busy with the seam of the hood so nearby.  This cleans it up a bit and keeps the gray two-tone consistent on all sides of the car.

The wheels on Concept 1 are the best of the bunch, so I went with them.  Concept 2's wheels remind me too much of those found on a late-model Mustang Mach 1 (not good for a GM car).  Concept 3's wheels are very nice, but perhaps a bit too busy (what can I say, I always choose simplicity).  Concept 4's wheels are way too busy, and look like they should be on a German tuner car, not an American muscle car. 

Regarding the hood: I've seen a number of GTO owners attempt to paint a stripe down the middle of their hood, and I don't think I've ever liked it.  If the owner insists on a hood stripe, I think Hermance's version is probably the best I've seen, but still, I think it looks much better with a solid color hood.  "Keep it simple" is my mantra.  I prefer to attract attention by being a bit understated.

And I'm assuming the "Driven1" decal behind the front wheels is a request of the owner, so I didn't mess with it.  Otherwise, I'd go without it.

I'm also typically opposed to putting '70s-era side mirrors on a '60s-era car, but in this case, I think they look great.

The paint colors are nice, too.  I always encourage people to paint their GTOs colors other than red, (only because it's all too common to see a red GTO, and I should know, mine is Montero Red, for now...;-), but the red in these renderings appears to have a little bit of a copper hue to it, which looks nothing less than fantastic.  If it were me, I'd also use a generous amount of extra fine metallic flake for both colors so it really grabs the sun.

There's my $.02   ;)

I like concept 5!

The one thing I have been flipping back and forth on was the chrome.  I have been thinking of going with a satin chrome - maybe taking the bumpers and just media blasting or something like that.

I was intending on keeping the sides of the car the matte finish and going shiny on top with the coppertone.

Thanks for pointing out the Youtube vid of the car too - that was too funny.  I took my wife out to a movie back in April and that's when those guys got the car.

Don'tcha just love the camping bumper sticker?   8)

Can ya'll confirm the TCU & Wiring Harness model numbers? I am doing a similar swap - in fact i have the MAST M-90 WB02 SS Performance Package on our L92. Mainly thanks to your videos and Shaun @ BRP.

Thanks! Clay

 

I watched the video a couple times but I never heard the Model numbers for the TCU and Harness mentioned.

Thanks for the fast response!

Sure.

Here's the harness we used:  http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=377502 (http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=377502)

And here's the TCU # 377500:  http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=377500&Category_Code=ELEC (http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=377500&Category_Code=ELEC)

Here's the Uber Super Photo Gallery on the '66 GTO... I think there are 514 images covering the complete build from start to finish!   Click the link and check it out!     I'll be happy to answer any questions on the build.   Have fun!

Click Here For Pics! (http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/66_GTO/66GTOBigGallery/index.htm)