V8TV Forum

"Routy" (rhymes with Rowdy) is the name given to this 1969 Pontiac Firebird project. It's a play on the last name of the owner, and the car's demeanor and looks are designed to cause a stir on the streets. We're starting with a 1969 Firebird that was originally a 350 2-barrel car, and adding a full Trans Am body package, upgraded interior featuring late model Trans Am seats, and 17" and 18" Boyd Junk Yard Dog wheels. The new engine is a 400-based Pontiac with lots of performance tricks. The design came from the creative mind of Ben Hermance at Hermance Design and highlights the car's original lines with a bright red scheme and subtle charcoal stripes. The stripe treatment suggests other Pontiac themes, like the 1969 GTO Judge. We'll be posting video and photo updates of every step of the restoration process. Forum member "Steve Firebird" is the man behind this car, and we're going to be using this forum to make lots of build decisions and choices along the way, so feel free to jump in an be part of the process. It's an interesting story!

Steve, if you get a chance, maybe post up the story on how you ended up with this car and your plan on how you're going to use it when it's finished!

Hello everyone I go by Steve Firebird on this site this is my project car.  Here is a history of how I ended up with the 69. It’s a long one so settle in. I have a friend named Mark that came across a guy that was selling a bunch of Firebird parts. After some discussion Mark found out the guy had a whole storage shed of parts and two Firebirds partially apart he wanted to get rid of. Mark called me and we went down to check it out, after some haggling a deal was made for every thing. I went back with Mark and a few other friends and we loaded everything up and hauled it to Marks house. I hauled the 69 for Mark on my trailer and got a chance to look it over pretty well. I knew that my friend John was looking for a GTO and mentioned the 69 Firebird to him. He really had his heart set on a GTO so I kept on the look out and found what I thought was a great deal for him. We were actually on the way to look at the GTO when he started asking me about the Firebird. We happened to be going with in 5 miles of the 69 so he decided to take a look at it on the way. We never made it to see the GTO. Once he got a look at how solid the 69 was it was sold. I then got to haul the 69 to John’s house. I helped him take out the nasty interior and he started ordering parts and his wife even bought some stuff for him as a surprise Christmas present. John fixed a small spot on the driver side floor and a small spot on the trunk floor. He found a set of original GM front fenders for the car that were very nice and bought a set of after market rear quarters for the car and started to install them. I stopped by from time to time and was very impressed and happy that he was making such great progress.  The rest of the car was rust free and in no time he had come a long way. Then all of the sudden he just stopped working on it. It sat for a year and he did not touch it. Finally he told me he took it to a body shop to have the rear quarters put on and again it sat at the body shop for something like a year with out being touched. I told him if he ever decided to sell it to call me. One day out of the blue I got the call. We agreed on a price and all that was left was to tell his wife. That did not go over very well so we just decided to let the deal sit and see what happed. Not to long after that I got a call. John had just called the body shop to tell them to forget about the rear quarters because he was thinking about selling the car. They said they had just finished them the car was in primer and he had a bill sitting there. That was the final straw. I paid off the body shop bill and gave John his asking price for the 1969 Firebird all the parts and a driver 1970 GTO he had picked up after he stopped working on the Firebird. I cleaned up the GTO and sold it to recoup some of my investment and stored the 69 for later.  Now it finally gets to be finished like it deserves and I can’t be happier to be working with the crew at V8TV to make it happen. I will go into some of my plans for the car later on.  Steve

This thing has been "in-progress" for a long time, huh?      Here's the snap shots of the car as it sits today, with some shots of the work Steve described as well.    It's a pretty clean car to start with, but we're looking forward to blowing it apart and gettin' it back on track.   I love the "in the trailer" shots!

Steve,

Are all the parts still in the trailer?     Kelle's asking about the inventory system.... I don't suppose you've got the bolts bagged & tagged, huh?

UHHH ya the inventory system is a little weak ::)  I did find that some of the suff is bagged and tagged but most was not. I am hopping to pull the car out of the trailer this week end and put it in the car hauler and start sifting through the boxes to see whats what. When I got the car I was not too worried about it since I have had quite a few of them apart over the years. I willl try to make some order of it before you guys have to tackle it. I did find a set of new front sheet metal bolts that John bought for the car so that will help.

We'll have to see what she says about that.... Kelle is the parts person and keeps track of all that stuff.     We'd be in a big mess if she didn't manage all the details.

I took some photos of the DuPont Hot Hues paint chip charts in the sun, and I know it's not 100% accurate, but I'll post the pics and we can all hone in on the exact colors for the red, the charcoal, and the silver stripes.    I'll probably post 'em tomorrow.     

I noticed something I had forgot about. We need to replace the dash were it was cut out back in the 80s for the radio and the package tray area looks pretty nasty as well. I have a line on the dash but not sure about the pakage tray.

I noticed the dash and the package tray.     The tray is an easy one, we can make a new piece for it if you don't need a 100% original piece, or we can locate a GM piece if you'd rather have that.     

Did the car have work done in the driver seat floor area? 

Yes he put a small patch in why do you see something that looks wrong?

Not wrong, I just picked up on what looks like some weld beads around where the seat brace mounts to the floor.

How nice do you want this car to be in the areas where you normally can't see?   Like the weld seams in the trunk where the quarters were repaired, the floor patches, etc.?     We normally like to make the repairs undetectable, and from what I see so far, it looks like we should be able to clean up those areas.

Steve, the parts in boxes, is probably not a big deal, we can usually figure out what the parts are, but, since we aren't the ones that took it apart, I just get worried that we are missing something, and won't know right up till we need it.  And, I'm pretty crazy with parts organizing, I like to count the bolts and make sure I have all of them and know if they came with washers or certain clips, etc.  I also always check to see if anything needs to be replaced when we take cars apart to start building the parts to order list.  But, I'll work with it, I like the car renderings so much, this is gonna be fun!

Kevin, I think it’s a good idea to clean up the welds as best you can. I will try to get a better look at those areas today. I bought the car put it in the trailer and never really looked at it since.

Kelle, I understand what you are saying. I will try to dig in and see just how bad it is and get back to you. I will send along a master parts guide to help you when putting it back together. I have one on CD and a hardcopy from a GM dealer I got years ago. It has really helped me over the years. Hopefully you will still like the car after you guys work on it for a while.   

We'll do what we can to make it look like it was never even repaired.   

Here's a couple shots from the DuPont Hot Hues color chip charts... I realize a photo on the internet is not what the car is going to look like in reality, but it's close.     Take a look at the reds and let me know what you think for color!    (I'm leaning toward Red Hot Meltdown...)

Looks like a great project!  Of course, I'm more than elated to see another Pontiac being restored.  What kinds of plans are in store for the engine & transmission?  Are you going to call on the maestros at Butler Performance, or perhaps build it in-house?  Either way, this should be a great build to watch, especially since the car's owner is in the forum!  I can't wait!

It’s really hard to see a difference between the reds with my screen. I am going to try and get to a DuPont dealer and look at some chips in person.
Weather is pretty bad today I might not get up to the trailer for a while but I will let you know when I do. I have to go out and plow snow pretty soon so take care and I will talk with you later.

If you're leaning toward painting it a shade of red, I really dig the darker burgundy colors on Firebirds.  I think Hot Poppy or Brandywine would look excellent.

I must admit, however, that I have a bit of an aversion toward bright red Pontiacs. :)  There are way too many Montero Red GTOs out there (mine included - saving $$ for paint job ;D ).  It's not that bright red looks bad on Firebirds (quite the contrary, actually), it's just that bright red seems to be the default Pontiac color.

I think the red in the rendering is spot-on, the trick is to find a color to match.     I'll have to see what Hermance was going for.    He mentioned the Boyd Red, but I think that's a little dark.    Glad you like the project, I think it's going to be a very fun car to drive when it's done!

Hey Kevin,/ Steve,
                              Cool project.   Using any DSE products? Subframe, mini-tubs, quadra-link, roll cage, electric wiper?
       How long will the build be Kevin? 

Thanks Dan!   I think Steve already has a set of DSE rear springs, and we're not sure about the rest of the project.    I'd like to throw the DSE catalog at the car, but it depends on the budget, and It think Steve's already got most of the parts to build the car.     He can comment more on this.     The build time is going to be spread across 2009.   

I think I should take some time and explain my vision on this build. When I bought the 69 I did not really have a definite plan for it I just knew it was a good deal and a solid car. I thought about it a lot and decided since I just went through a Pro Touring type build on my 68 Firebird I wanted to do something different for this one. I also realized I had a lot of nice parts I took off the 68 that would work well on the 69.  I want to utilize a lot of the stock components just to make the build simple and easy.  I really liked to looks of the 69 Trans Am but did not really want to do a TA clone. I decided to go with the TA body kit and try to come up with a unique paint scheme. Ben really came through for me on that part. The plan is to use as many of the parts I have all ready have to do this car.   The engine came with the car so that’s what I am going with. It is a 1973 Pontiac 400 block with 1968 # 16 heads.  I will detail the engine build in a later post along with who is building it. The transmission is a M20 that has about 5000 miles on a rebuild and a Hurst competition plus shifter along with a factory console all of which I pulled out of my 68.  I also have a set of DSE 3” drop leafsprings and QA1 shocks I took off my 68. The JYD rims and tires have 16 miles on them and  came off the 68 as well. I picked up a steel repro Trans Am hood and all the parts to make it a functional ram air system. I found a set of 2002 TA seats on eBay that will go in the car as well and am having the back seat reupholstered to match the front.
I want the car to be fun, flashy and easy/comfortable to drive. It will have power steering and brakes as well as AC and I have been thinking about going to EFI if I can swing it. I want my Wife to be able to get in and drive it to shows and on cruises as well as my son when he turns 16. It’s not going to be a race car but a fun cruiser with some good power and a Routy attitude. I hope that gives you a quick idea of the general direction of the build.  There are still a lot of details to sort out on this build and we plan to do all of it right on this thread so everyone’s opinions are welcome.
 Steve

I think it will be cool to do more with less... like using Delrin bushings in stock arms, ported iron heads, and the like to squeeze as much as we can from what you've already got.     

It looks like the Dan (fabriktor) and the crew are working on a '69 Firebird for George Poteet... maybe we can steal some tricks off that car!

http://www.detroitspeed.com/projectpages/georgepoteet/gp1969firebird.htm (http://www.detroitspeed.com/projectpages/georgepoteet/gp1969firebird.htm)

(http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/Projects/gpoteet/gp1969fire-018L.jpg)

That looks like a super nice build. I will keep an eye on it for sure.
My son Clayton and I were able to get up to the storage trailer and pull Routy out and  transfer it to my car hauler. I was worried that if we got a big snow storm it would be tough to get to it. Temps started out a 0 but did get clear up to 12 by the time we were done.
We got a lot on nice parts with the car but what a mess. Very few things are marked and no organizaton at all to speak of. The parts sat in a pole shed and got very dirty before I bought the car. I found a couple of dead birds in one of the boxes and a bunch of straw in others. The new rear bunper has a couple of dents on it from something getting droped on it. I pulled some of the big boxes of stuff into my shop and will start to go thru them as I have  time. I guess thats one of the pit falls of buying a project some one else gave up on. Sorry Kelle.

Wow, I'm trying to get past the symbolic dead bird in the "dead 'Bird"....    At least you're being honest... usually we hear "Oh yeah, the parts are all there, pristine, ready to put together, all labeled and organized!" but it's actually closer to your situation.      We'll get through it!

I will take a deep breath and dig right in Steve, if you don't have time to go through it, just make sure that if there are any little loose parts rolling around to put them in a bag so we don't lose anything else.  Dead birds and especially straw are no big deal to me either.
This is gonna be FUN!

Steve sent some pics from the weekend, loading ROUTY into the trailer... I don't envy you for this one.    Looks cold!   And that's probably more than a ton of parts!   

Hey Dr. Firebird...

Glad to see the new project is under way.  Very nice.   ;D  The rendering that Ben did fits perfectly.  Want to see this progress.  If you need any extra parts, I have a pretty large pile at the house. 

Take Care Steve.

Thats good to know Speedster. I might take you up on that before this is all done. How is your butt kickin car coming?

Thanks for including me in the project Kevin and Steve! Great project, I'm excited to see how it turns out!!

Red hot meltdown is a great choice!  I've spec'd it before.

Its great to see another one being saved!! But what is all that white stuff on the ground.. we dont see much of that in Texas.

Yeah, Steve lives just south of the Great White North.     It's brutal.     Our shop is about 1/2 down the country, so we have yet to see any snow here, but it could happen.     The car will be happy here!

We just got dumped on again. Looks like 8-12 inches total before we are done today. My driveway had 2-3 ft drifts across it when I plowed this moring and the road was not plowed yet. Maybe I should bring the car down the next chance I get with some good weather. A couple more storms I might not be able to get out to the road with the trailer.

Oof.    That's harsh my man.   You guys are like officially buried until what, June now? 

Maybe you can borrow a Unimog? ;)

I wish I had a Mog... those things are awesome!

I could use a Mog with as biga$$ plow on it right about now. The banks are higher than my plow. A Mog with a duramax and allison would be a killer work truck and I could take it in the fields to finish up the soil sampling!

one more

Oh man, you did get dumped on!     Thanks for posting the pics!   

Engine builder said the oil pan he got in for me is powder coated black. He can get me one thats not coated which way do you want it?

Well, I'd prefer not, as I think the engine should be a muted gray scheme to match the car's stripes, but it's your call.   

Nice try Kevin on stealing ideas!  Just look at the pictures and you can see that the car has to be totally restored before we can do our deal.
  The build is pretty basic , subframe, quadra-link, mini-tubs, sub frame connectors, etc. It will have some trick fab work though. You can see the concept from Eric Brockmeyer at George's site - www.cameltoe.net (http://www.cameltoe.net), click on "future" and you'll see it. Just keep any eye on the project thru DSE's site and you'll see the trick stuff as it's built.
        Oh yeah, we are looking for a NOS Formula hood if anybody knows of one.

That's it for now, Happy Ho-Ho-Holiday's!    Dan

That's going to be killer, Dan.

(http://www.cameltoe.net/ImageFetch.ashx?Size=0&ImageID=832)

Great design! 

I am with you. I told him to get me one in the raw.
 
Looks like I will be picking up the engine on the 20th.

Now I need to get that back seat to the shop to get redone.

I need to find a wiring harness pigtail for the power seats.  I did not think to ask for one when I picked up the seats and they told me yesterday its not worth there time to go get one out of a car now that it's winter. I guess times are not as tough as I thought for the salvage yards.  Do you guys have any good yards down there that would grab one out of a car for me? I think it would make the install nice to have the factory connectors. The seats are from a 2002 TA with power drivers seat and the power lumbar/bolsters on both seats. If not I will try some of the LS1 sites for guys parting out cars.

Just now looking at this thread.  I'm not sure I dig the 442 style hood in the rendering.  Not to mention that will be a ton of fabrication time built into the cost of the finished product.  Anyone else think the same way?

The hood is a steel reporuduction of the original Trans Am hood. I all ready have it in my shed. It may look slightly different than the rendering but it is close.

Are you talking about the hood on th erendering on the first page of this thread?  For some reeason I only seem to remember seeing that style of hood on the early 70's Firebirds and 442's.  Won't be the first time I was wrong......LOL.......   Either way, I'm excited to see the video blogs of the project.  It will be an awesome ride. 

Man, the snow up there is CRAZY!!!!!!  We had a small dusting here in Kansas a few days ago.  We don't ever get the opportunity to see snow like that.

My brother-n-laws 72 442 has a hood identical to the rendering is why I was asking

Here's a feature we did on a different Steve's 1969 Trans Am... you can get a better feel for the hood in this video.     

They made very few Trans Ams in 69. I think less than 700 were made so there are not many around to look at.  They just started making the steel repo hood. Before all the repros were fiberglass or fiberglass with a metal frame. I have heard that the original Trans Am hoods  have sold for 4-10K !  When I  found there was an all steel repro hood avaiable I knew I wanted one for this car. It still was not cheap at 1200.00 but if was cheaper than a real one.

OK....I can see it now.  That car in the vid is worth a ton......numbers matching

Hey Kevin,
   I have been sorting though the parts a little and wanted your opinion.  I have parts like the original door panels and the heater box assembley  that I don’t think will be using. Do want me to bring them down just in case? I am also feeling bad that I am not finding  hardy any of the fasteners for putting this car back together. I am afraid they ended up in one big bucket lost some where in the previous owners shop or on the scrap pile. I think we should plan on buying any and all screw and bolt kits offered. I think I have seen kits in the restoration magazines. If I remember right they sell a sweet stainless kit through GP super store from time to time. I may come across the missing fasteners but it’s not looking good.

A guy on performance year’s site makes and sells these. It looks like a neat way to have gauges in the 69 for the money. What do ya think
Steve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-GAUGE-GAGE-CLOCK-DELETE_W0QQitemZ230314047704QQihZ013QQcategoryZ80739QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-PONTIAC-FIREBIRD-TRANS-AM-GAUGE-GAGE-CLOCK-DELETE_W0QQitemZ230314047704QQihZ013QQcategoryZ80739QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

I think we should check to see if AMK has a fastener set for '69 Firebirds, cause if would be the whole car including all the hard-to-find stuff in the interior, etc.  We used one on the Royal Sport Camaro and really liked it.  The fasteners are all 100% correct, and they come in a box with each grouping of fasteners labeled.    They also have a number corresponding to that fastener's page in the GM assembly manual.  They are not very expensive, either... and the time saved restoring and categorizing random nuts and bolts is worth ten times the price.       

http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/119/39/ (http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/119/39/)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/HPPImages/23/13463%5B1%5D.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/HPPImages/23/13464%5B1%5D.jpg)


As for the gauge panel, it looks like an interesting solution.     Do you want to run the stock speedo and stuff?    If so, these seem to match pretty well.    Otherwise, we can do a console mount or something, but you're right, this is an economical solution.   

I think it's a good idea to bring that stuff... you never know.       

Here's some of the latest shots from Steve - what he calls "NOS" (Nasty Old S**T) parts....   I don't think we'll need the old back seat foam!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB12.12.08s/69FB12.12.08s_001.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB12.12.08s/69FB12.12.08s_002.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB12.12.08s/69FB12.12.08s_003.jpg)
(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB12.12.08s/69FB12.12.08s_004.jpg)

I have realized over the years that the nasty old seat foam along with mouse nests create  the famous  "old car smell”        :-[ I can live with out it.

Yeah, that's pretty nasty.     I kinda like old car smell on perfectly preserved specimens, but mouse remnants and droppings are not what I would call "aromatic".

I finally found some time to pick up the engine for the Firebird. I would post some pictures but is all wrapped in plastic until I get it to Kevin because it’s not painted yet. Kevin has some cool ideas for it so he is going to do the paint and coatings on it.  I said in an earlier post I would give some details on the build so here they are.
The block is a 1973 400 bored 30 over and we did every thing the right way to make it all square and true. The block was magged then bored and honed with a plate and 4 corner decked and also was line honed. We used a factory nodular crank.  Forged dished pistons were purchased to reach the 9.7 compression we were shooting for.  The rods are also new. They are forged rods from PPR and are using ARP rod bolts. Rings are file fit and the whole assembly and the fly wheel have been balanced. Of course all the other parts were replaced with new compotes as well.
The heads are 1968 #16. The heads were stripped bare cleaned checked and decked to make sure they were flat and true then 100 % rebuilt as well. Hardened seats were put in the exhaust side. Everything was replaced with high quality components. The heads and intake were lightly ported and gasket matched. New roller rockers were also put in it and a Ram Air IV cam and lifters installed.
The work was all done by Wayne Schicantek of Schicantek Performance out of Milwaukee WI. He specializes in Pontiacs and can pretty much build any thing you want. I was very impressed with him. He did it on time and on budget. He even met me part way to deliver the engine. His phone number is 414-801-9230.
I still need to pick out the distributor, fuel system and exhaust but have some pretty strong ideas on what I want to do.

Sounds like a nice build.  Have you made any decisions regarding intake?  Are all holes tapped to make it a 4-bolt block?

Sounds great, Steve.   I'm glad you got what you wanted and are happy with the build.   We were discussing a combination of light / dark grays for the engine parts, which we'll go over again as we get closer.    I bet you're glad the engine work is done!

I went with a stock 1969 intake and had it lightly cleaned up and gasket matched to the heads. I am running reproduction ram pans with the TA hood so I wanted to make sure everything fit right under the hood. Its a two bolt block which I felt was plenty good for the use I have in mind. I was shooting for a round 350 horse power so it should hold up well. This car is going to get driven alot on the street and not raced.

 

Kevin, I am glad to have the engine home and paid for. 
I just did a deal with a guy for a a set of GW Del-A-Lum bushings for stock control arms  and QA1 Single-Adj QA1 Coilovers for stock control arms. These parts like 90% of what I buy were bought by someone and he changed his mind. They were never installed. I have the QA1s on my 68 and really like them so I wanted them on the 69. I actually bought them from the same guy I bought the 3" drop leafsprings and rear Del-A-Lum kit from and the QA1s that are on my 68 came from one of his cars as well.

Sounds like you scored a deal on the parts.    Those QA1s are nice, and the Del-A-Lums are great.   Those will be a perfect low-buck upgrade to the stock arms.    Good move.   

The latest and last purchase for a while:
It’s a nearly new 8" dual diaphragm booster from master power (part # BS1008D), and a composite reservoir GM master for 4 wheel disc brakes.

I guess I should say I paid for it but don’t have it yet. Hopefully it will show up.  :)

Steve
Any update on hardware?  Are you still planning on delivery the 17th? 

I did not buy a kit yet. I looked at the web site and did not see one for a 69 Firebird only a 69 Camaro.  I would think it would be close enough. The original front bumper assembly is still intact in one piece so you can use it for guides as far as what bolts are needed. I would think the rest of the bolts on the Camaro would be very close to the firebird. If you can go ahead and get one ordered on your end that would probably be the easiest. I am still planning on the 17th and looking forward to it. 

Steve

AMK does have a '69 Firebird body kit.    It's like $235.   They don't have the interior kit listed for the 'bird, but I think that would be close to the Camaro.   We'll look into it.

I was thinking about the paint / stripes today and was wondering what you guys would think if I had the strips made as a decal like the  one were in the 69-70 Judges.  The same place that made my emblems on the 68 would do a good job on the stripes for Routy and it would make painting the car less work. I know it takes alot of time to really nail a set of stripes like that down and with the decals you just peal them off if they get messed up and start over.

I like the idea... how would your graphics guy go about designing the stripes?     As in the measurements?  Would we take those?

OK I have been thinking about how to do this and here is one idea. It might not work but I was thinking you might be able to lay the stripes out right on the car with some pin striping until you get the look you want and then put masking paper over the stripes and  trace it with a marker.  You would then have a 100 % life size pattern we could send the graphics company.  The neat thing is you would just have to do one side and they could make them for both sides from the same pattern. We would know they will fit and look right because they will be right off the car. They can make the stripe out of one solid color and then print the second color right on the vinyl for a clean look.
One problem I see is matching the colors for the stripes to the colors on the engine and the rims or any other parts we want to match.  I don’t think they have a very large choice of colors to work within the vinyl marital.

This sounds like a good idea... we'll have to give it a try.     We should get our hands on the color palette of the graphics guy and try to match paint to it.   

I talked to the graphics guy today about the plan for marking off the stripe on some masking paper and he thought that would work great.  We also spoke about the colors and I am going to pick up some martial from him to bring down with the car. He said as far as the printed part on the stripe he can match that to whatever you want if we just send him a color chip.  The plan is to have a charcoal stripe with silver accents right?

Yeah, the colors are sliver and charcoal.   Truth be told, if they are off a click from the engine colors, it's not like the stripes are right next to the engine, so it would be hard to tell a mismatch...

Steve,

What do you think about using that Eastwood Ceramic Chassis Black on Routy's subframe and suspension parts?   

I remember that product from the 66 GTO you built so I went back and watched the video of it. I think it looks like a great product and since you have some experience with it you would be the best judge. If you like it I am sold. 

I really like the sheen.. it's almost the same as stock, and the stuff is like iron.   I think it's a good move.    I don't recall - do you have subframe connectors for this car?

No I do not have any but should get some. Thats one thing I have not found yet second hand!  Maybe I should do a quick check on eBay ot craigslist, unless you have a line on some.

So it was a big day at the V8TV shop yesterday, as we welcomed the arrival of Routy!    Yes, Steve finally got a break in the weather and was able to haul the '69 Firebird from the frozen tundra of Wisconsin to the V8TV shop.   Steve was also kind enough to bring down some fresh Leinenkugel beer and genuine Wisconsin Cheese!   What a guy!  Here's the first video and some snap shots of the car.

Huzzah!  What a great day for V8TV (and its viewers).  Looks like a pretty clean car at this point.  I'll be following this one very closely, as Pontiacs are near and dear to my heart.  I can't wait to Routy come to life.

Steve:

For EFI have you considered RetroTekSpeed? Kevin interviewed them at SEMA. The video is somewhere here, but I can't find it. I thought Kevin was going to faint 'cuzz he was so hot for this: http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/powerjection-i/powerjection-i-systems/powerjection-1-system.html (http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/powerjection-i/powerjection-i-systems/powerjection-1-system.html)

The system is also sold under the Professional Products brand... here's the SEMA interview.   It would be cool because Routy's engine isn't super-exotic, and the carb shaped EFI system should fit the OE style Trans-Am hood.    Good idea...

Today Nick and I cleaned and organized the parts in the trailer.  We got it all mostly to the front of the trailer so the car could fit back in the trailer if we need to. 

We found 4 mice nests, one was bigger than my head made of seat stuffing and had Nick convinced we were going to find a rat!

We discovered that all the fiberglass pieces on the front of the grill (we need two but have 4) are in rough shape, one majorly cracked, the other three we are going to talk to John about minor repair, or do we need to get new ones.

Also the honeycomb pieces for the grill are really messed up I found 4 but 3 are cracked 2 of them are big cracks where the honeycomb is separated on one side from the surrounding frame.  One is just cracked in a corner area.  The other is still in the frame so I haven't checked it.

We also found a bunch of brake parts for standard drum brakes.  We only found one (rusty) rotor and one rusty caliper (looks like one big piston) we probably want better brakes, and definitely need all four wheels worth.

We have 4 wheels but only two tires. What is the plan for the tires?

I think we are okay on the window tracks for the front glass, but the back glass I don't seem to have enough. I  think I have the main rear tracks but not the smaller pieces and hardware.  I would like to see pics of the windows so I can tell you what else to mail.

I don't have near enough hardware to put the car back together  What we have barely comes ½ way up a 5 gallon bucket. So we will definitely get the AMK kit.

Here is the list of stuff I'll probably order, unless you've got anything stashed somewhere

Brakes, Dash Pad, Weatherstrip kit, Window Fuzzy Kit, Kick Panels, Vintage Air, Door Handles and gaskets Inside and Out, Window Handles Inside, Door, Trunk Glovebox Locks and gaskets, Hood scoops and tunnels, Pillar Post Pads, Washer Jug and Radiator Overflow Jug, Valance lights (we think we can sand blast the housings but lenses and chrome trim need to be replaced), Arm Rest Pads
Piston Panel Material, Headliner, Sunvisors or new material, Hurst Shifter Boot, Throwout Fork Boot
Throwout Fork Pivot, Throwout Bearing, Front and Rear License Plate holders, All new rubber stoppers for trunk, hood, fenders, doors, etc, Wiper motor rubber boot, Headlights, Headlight Trim Rings and Beauty Squares, Firebird emblems, Firebird turn signals, Fiberglass Headlight covers for grill, Horns, Tail light lens and chrome trim and gaskets, All light gaskets and chrome trim, Door Panels front and Rear, Grill Point Fiberglass boomarang piece, Plastic Pieces around lights in Valance, Console, Door Jam Vents, Sail Panels probably in headliner kit, Z Bar Hardware, Brake and Clutch Pedal Plastic Shims, Radiator and Fan, Seat Belts, Rear Seat Dividers, Carpet, Back Seat Arm Rest Bases, Piston Panel material, Door Handle Mechanisms, Door Latch Assemblies, Steering Wheel, Sill Plates, Gas Brake Clutch Pedal Rubbers, Sunvisor Supports, Rearview Mirror, Steering Column parts if necessary, Glove Box inside, Trunk Mat, Glove Box Switch, Door Jamb light switches, All new wiring harnesses, Windshield Washer Hoses, Radiator Hoses, Power Steering Hoses, Battery Tray and hold down, Battery and Cables, Ground Strap, MSD Parts, Headers?  We found mufflers, tubes and pipes, We found one motor mount in the trailer??, Fuel and Brake Lines, Gas Tank, Need Help with Ram Air Parts List, Thermostat, Water pump the one in the trailer doesn't look good to me, Shifter Bushing and clip Kit, Speedo Cable, Brake Hoses, Ebrake Cables, Fender Splash Shields, Bumper Bolts, Service and Assembly Manuals, Stereo??, Gauges?, Grill Honeycombs

The plan is tomorrow we are going to separate from the subframe and put the body on the Autotwirler.  I'll be able to get all the smaller pieces media blasted next week. And hopefully pending weather we can get the tub of the car blasted too.
Kevin's gonna shoot the separation of body and frame so keep an eye out for that video next week!

Mice nests …. You guys can keep them I do not need them back  ;D
I think you are pretty much right on with the list except there seems to be a few parts I am pretty sure I brought down that you say are missing but it maybe that they are present but not good enough to use. I am sure that some of the other stuff you need I can dig up at my place.
Here are some things I have questions about:
1)   Steering wheel I thought I sent a Grant wheel along.
2)   Piston panel material. What’s that?
3)   Probably need the factory shifter boot that goes under the console, is that what you mean by Hurst shifter boot?
4)   I sent a console along.
5)   Firebirds really do not have rear seat arm rests. I did send along what Firebirds use.
6)   Door handle mechanisms I think I can find some.
7)   Throwout fork pivot should still be on the bellhousing.
8 )   I thought I sent turn signal housings along.
9)   Radiator and fan I want to get an aluminum radiator and maybe an electric fan. I like the Lincoln Mark VIII fan set up.
10)   I think I sent latch assemblies with the car.
11)   I can send the Ram Air parts list but it should all be there except the spark arrester screen which is on back order.
12)   I want to use ram Air exhaust manifolds in place of headers. RARE makes a nice repro set.
13)   May need to wait on the e brake cable until we decide on what brakes to use.
14)   We still need an X pipe that runs between the manifolds and the mufflers may get them from RARE also.
15)            Need to buy two front tires I used them on the 68.
I will take a look for some of the stuff when I get home and get back to you.  Steve

Well, it's apart!    We blew the body off the subframe today and all looks well.   I'll post pics and a video tomorrow.    Cheese curds still going strong!

I did see a steering wheel, I thought it was really small looking so I didn't think it was for this car.  No problem then, we have the steering wheel you sent and will use that. 
They are called piston panels in a convertible but anyway they are the panels that go where the door panels would go on the back seat.  I guess they are also the arm rests for the back seat and they hold the ash trays.  They make pre formed material and our interior guy will slide them over the metal forms, add some padding and make them look real nice, we just gotta get a material that matches the seats. 
I found a Hurst shifter boot in the trailer its square shaped.  Does that go below the console, or not with this car?
I saw door handles but most of that type of stuff was pretty pitted and not pretty so I'd like to put new chrome handles all the way around.  The mechanisims inside the door look pretty good, we can clean the door striker mechanisims and make sure they are okay to reuse as well. 
The Throwout fork was with the bellhousing, the other hardware for the pivot ball needs to be replaced and we definately need the boot. 
We found the turn signal housings, those are fine and can be cleaned up, but again the birds and lenses should be much nicer. 
Re the Ram Air, I forgot what else you said you still needed with the Tunnels, do you remember??
The console you sent has hot glue underneath holding something together ( I didn't look closely yet) but I also noticed a crack toward the front of the consol on one side about 4 inches long.  Also the console door is a bear to open and close.  Kevin doesn't think the consoles are available so I'll re evaluate the one you have and see if we can make it look nice and work well.  We have many 3M glues that are way better than hot glue. 
The bed of my 54 is overflowing with parts to be blasted and repainted.  I was so disapointed tonight taking apart the front clip to discover it was assembled then painted, the front clip was sand blasted then painted over the sand.  Many parts had sand still between them and nearly every part was bare metal or rust between them.  Even better was that the bottom of everything on the front clip didn't get painted at all. 

That clears every thing up for me. Thanks Kelle. It makes me feel good that you (all of you) are so intersted in making the car the best it can be. I think the boot you found would be for a car with out a console and is not the right one. I know the console is beat up I had it in my 68. They do make a repro for it now so I guess you have to decide if its worth the time to fix it or just buy new. I had set of outside door handles off the 68 with a bunch of emblems in a box to send down but I think I pulled it because most of the emblems will  not work on a 69.  Buying  all new stuff is a good call.  We still need to get the hood scoops and tubes for the hood. Did you find a hood tach?  I have to go now I will log on again later, Steve 

We worked on the Bird again today and boy have things changed since you dropped it off.  The car is on the Autotwirler now and we scraped all the old seam sealer out of the seams and we are starting to remove some of the thick undercoating off the bottom this afternoon.  We should be finished with that tomorrow.  Its odd, some seams appear to be newer seam seal, some had the sealer removed and then painted again so I guess they weren't intending to seal those seams back up.  Most of the sealer was factory original and came out really easily. 
A little propane torch is making the undercoating removal very easy.  I did find the hood tach and in perfect shape. 
The scraping of the seam sealer and a good vacuum exposed some pin holes and bondo or something in the trunk, I'll know more after media blasting.  Kevin will take lots of pics too.
I know the return home would cause you to go some distance off route, but I wondered if you wanted to come by and pick up the parts we know for sure we aren't going to use to give us some room in the trailer, and keep it out of our way so we don't have to keep moving it around in the trailer to get to the good stuff.   Some of the stuff you can take back is he drum brake stuff and the old leaf springs.  Its not to much so it would fit in your truck bed, but its to heavy for shipping.
Hope you are having a nice time visiting the family. 
I'll start the official parts list on Monday and start compiling part numbers and checking with places like RARE on availability.   

Here's some snap shots of Routy's initial dismantling.. it wasn't very hard as the car had been taken apart and only loosely re-assembled, and it's not rusty at all.    It was a quick tear-down to get the body on the Auto Twirler.

Looking very good!  I'm still very surprised at how clean (not rusted) everything appears to be.  What a fantastic foundation, plus, I'm sure it puts a few minds at ease to learn that you don't have a covered-up horror story on your hands, as is often the case with old cars.  Steve, you must be pretty amazed to see your car in such a different state so soon after dropping it off.

Hey Steve  -

Check out how nice this guy's bumper fits... he said he's considering pulling some 'glass plugs of certain parts like the bumper.    I think a body-color version of this would be killer on Routy.   He can also recreate the laser-cut insert on the tail panel in the second pic. 

(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii283/zingercustoms/100_2068.jpg)

(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii283/zingercustoms/100_2087.jpg)

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14804 (http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14804)

(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii283/zingercustoms/100_2071.jpg)

Right now I am holding my breath untill it gets back from media blasting hoping its a nice as it looks. Its really cool to be able to see the progress as they are working on it. If it was at a " normal shop" you never really get to see the day to day progress on your car. 

That looks pretty cool on that car with the other mods he is doing it will be killer.
I really like the idea of tucking the bumper in closer but that looks like it’s actually recessed into the pan. Do you think the bumper could be tightened up to body without changing the rest of the rear sheet metal?

How about somthing like this. I think I have a 69 Camaro bumper around hre some where.

I'm not sure about a Camaro bumper because of the Firebird's license plate rise in the middle.    I think we have a Camaro bumper laying around.. we'll check it out. 

I think you could do allmost the same thing or cose to it with the Firebird bumper. If its just making it fit closer to the body and tightining it up to the body.

That would be the idea, to suck it in to the body.   Does someone make glass 'bird bumpers?   

Kevin,

Any real thought to use the PowerJection I system?

Can you trade some promotion for a free unit?

Hey Bill,

We might be able to get a good-guy price on one, but nothing comes free, my man.    We are considering using it, but that decision will come a little later in the build... right now, we're up to our eyeballs in disassembly and parts cleanup.   

Good guy price? Wholesale?

I though parts were provided in consideration for advertising on this site. Geeez....

The first thing that comes to mind when considering the idea of a fiberglass bumper is the practicality of such a unit.

If this car is going to be driven a lot (not a show queen), and possibly by Steve's soon-to-be-licensed son(?), fiberglass bumpers might be a bit fragile in the long-term.  I'd probably opt out of 'glass bumpers unless I was really trying to save weight for racing, but that's just my take on them.   ;)

Yeah, when I was a teenager, I always felt like I was burdening the guy who built & installed the motor for my GTO when I would stop by to see how things were going.  Not wanting to be a pain in his neck, I basically stayed away and didn't get to see or learn much of anything, which is a shame.  It's great to see the progress every step of the way, and you'll have the resources to make a killer scrap book after everything is finished.

Hold your breath, indeed.  The media blaster tells ALL!!  But I do have a pretty good feeling about this car.  I seriously doubt anything major will turn up.

I think the same thing, but have you seen a stock 'bird bumper?  It's not much of a safety feature...

Sometimes they are, or should I say "were", mostly when we were on TV.   Some companies would buy commercial time and would contribute parts towards the commercial time bill.    These days, the economy is putting an end to that.    People come to us occasionally  and offer to give us a "free" part in exchange for the exposure on the site.    The truth is, we then have to shoot the install and produce the videos on that part, which usually ends up being a far greater expense than the part.     Funny thing is, none of these cars belong to us, so we end up doing the production and not even getting the part or anything.    People just think parts rain down out of the sky for these projects, but I'll tell you, the strings attached to "free" parts aren't worth the hassle. 

These guys make a bunch of glass parts       http://www.wsracingfiberglass.com/products.htm (http://www.wsracingfiberglass.com/products.htm)

Looks like they make a glass rear bumper. I don't know if I like the idea of a fiberglass rear bumper. I guess I will need to think on that one.

 I tried to fine some pics of the Firebird they did on overhalin a while back. They always do some stuff with the bumpers.  I found some pictures but none of the rear.
http://www.hotroddvd.net/gallery.asp?target=76 (http://www.hotroddvd.net/gallery.asp?target=76)

Kevin,

You burst my bubble.... Now I'm all cynical....

Oh man, you mean there's no free lunch?

No free lunch, but Steve brought us free cheese curds! 

I don't really think the stock ones look all that bad.

You're right, they do look pretty good.    At least they're nice and small.    I only thought 'glass if it were to be cut up and body color. 

(http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h37/123colebucket/2007%20DRAG%20SHOW%20CARS/carshow045.jpg)

I posted a few pictures over at PT.com to see if someone would do a Photoshop for me for a painted bumper. Do you think we should get Ben involved?
I was actually thinking a stock painted bumper and a charcoal tail panel would look great.

I can photoshop those, Steve.   I'll post 'em later today. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/RoutySmallBumper.jpg)

The car is going to the blaster today as well as a large majority of the parts.  After that we are going to disassemble the front subframe and shoot that for the website.

Kevin shot a blog last night of us scraping a bunch of the undercoating off the car last night in an attempt to make the blasting easier and discovered the seams in the floor where the patches were put in.  The seams were covered with some kind of metal type filler, it caught on fire very differently than the undercoating.  That will all be blasted out so we can see the seams of the patches and make sure they are solid.  Who ever welded in the patches welds too cold so the welds look like globs of bird droppings.  We discovered a few more pin holes but so far no major issues.

HOLDING BREATH !

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/RoutySmallBumperRed.jpg)

It's going to look totally different than this with the bright red paint, flush glass, TA wing, etc., but that's the idea...

I like it!

I like it too. I think the tail panel will look nice with the stripe you have planned on the car.

Nice job so far guys, I'll keep watching for updates.  :)

BOOM!    The car came apart.

Kelle just picked up the body shell from the media blaster.... overall, it looks pretty good.   Some hidden pinholes here and there, but the trunk floor is going to need some help, as are the floor patches on the driver side.    We'll post pics later today!

Pretty typical stuff, but it sounds fairly manageable.  I'm surprised you didn't find rusting on the deck lid filler panel (underneath the rear window), or at the base of of the windshield.

I was looking at the list of things we need to buy for the 69 and noticed we will be getting all new wiring. I seem to recall Kevin once telling me how long it can take to wire up a car and I remember all the time I spent on my 68. Then I remembered an interview you did with the guy from ISIS.  Would this be a good product to use on Routy or is the cost prohibitive. The question would be since we are rewiring the whole car can it save enough time to justify the cost? It looks like we might be able to set it up with remote start and delayed headlight shut off from the interview and since I want an electric fan we could use the system for controlling the fan. I always thought it would be nice to have the electric fan turn on automatically at low speeds like stop and go traffic maybe this system could do that? Just throwing it out there to discuss I may be crazy.  Steve

Well Steve, I agree you need new wiring.    We are going to do an ISIS install on the S71 Olds project shortly, so maybe you can see if it's something you want for the 'Bird.    ISIS is awesome, I'll tell you that much.   

That seems like a good deal to me. I can see what it’s all about and if we use it on Routy you guys will have one install under your belt all ready.

Steve do you want cup holders and console storage in Routy?  I found a console saddle at Classic Industries Part No. HH1002, let me know what you think.

Steve
I'm at the office, the old speedocable is at the shop, do you know the length of the speedo cable? 
62" or 71"
or they have a Ram Air M40 lower 21" without cruise.  Do you know what would be the correct one?

Steve..
What is the plan for the radio and speakers for Routy?

Sill plates
Brushed Aluminum, Simulated Carbon Fiber, or factory original?????

Steve
Please remember to send me pics of the window pieces you have.  Also, any luck finding out the brand of primer used on the car?

Cup holders? In a muscle car? Will it have a breakfast nook too?

I will pass on that.

Not sure on the length. The trans is an M20 4 speed

I really don't have one. I would like a nice am/fm with cd and a place to plug in a ipod. Don't need big speakers or amps.

Factory original please

I sent an email to Kevin about the primer with contact info to the guy that did the work.
How soon do you need the parts. I was thinking I would ship down the rear quarter windows with the hardware attached since they are small. For the door windows I was going to get a tool from the local glass guy and remove the hardware than attacth it to a piece of cardboard just how it goes on the glass with some notes.

You poke fun, Bill, but I think she found the cup holder that slides in the ash tray and is easily removable.    I think any car that gets driven a lot should have one... nothing is more aggravating than spilling coffee all over you new interior, especially when trying to shift a 4-speed.   I know, you're not supposed to bring anything into the car that can spill, but when it's 6a on a road trip, you'll bend the rules.     

We could build the breakfast nook in the back seat area.

There is >:( NO >:( eating or drinking allowed in any Firebird owned by Steve Prouty! I don't even let the family eat or drink in the 97. I may allow some water but thats about it. I have managed to spill drinks even while they were in cup holders.

There's a man with principals!    That's the best way to keep 'em clean.    I'm just glad we have vinyl seats in the Galaxie.. just hose it out every once in a while!

Well to be 100% honest I might sneak a soda when I am driving alone but do not tell the family :-[ ;)

Alright, now I need you to make another executive decision.  Most parts are reproduction, but some have a GM version which in most cases is more expensive.  Do you want me to consistently order GM when that option is available, or all repro?
Also, can you take a look at the Marquez Design things available for your car.  I think some of the pieces look nice but again, they are more expensive than the factory standard and they look different too.  Are you going for factory original everything, or is there a little cool factor going on too? 
When I think of Routy, I don't see chrome (since we want to flush mount the glass) and I like it that way, are you sure you want the factory sill plates since they are shiny, but they are considered inside the car, so maybe its fine.  I just want to have a consistent look throughout.

Another thing
The Sway Bar we took off the car looks like it belongs on a swing set.  Do you have a plan for upgrading the  sway bar?

I see lots of cools tuff on the Marquez site I would like but really nothing I can't live without. I will pass.
I think the repo stuff is fine for Routy.
Use the swing set swaybar.
How about getting repo sill plates and coating them to match the stripe or coating a set of orginal ones? I guess the carbon fiber would match the steering wheel so that might be cool as well depends on cost.

Steve, is there any way you might be dissuaded into upgrading the sway bar & springs?  If you don't get in to swapping control arms, etc., it seems like a sway bar and springs could be a relatively inexpensive way to radically improve handling characteristics.  Even if you don't intend to take Routy to the autocross course, having a more modern ride might be worth having.  Just my thought on the matter...

The car is going to have a QA1 coilover kit in the front, DSE 3" drop springs in the rear and Global West Del-a-lum bushings front and rear. We are also going to get sub frame connectors as well.
First I will say I am no handling expert. I guess I never thought the upgraded swaybar was needed unless you were really pushing the car. I am open to comments, is a bigger bar worth it? I can be talked into this. I could even be talked into a rear bar if it makes a huge difference. I am going to dig around on a couple PT sights and check it out today as well.  V8TV crew put your comments out here too.

I'm going to say that a properly tuned sway bar can really help the car.    Considering you're going to have a Pontiac engine and A/C, that's some weight up front.    Original wheels and tires probably were the weak link and would break free before the suspension limits were revealed, but now with the added spring and modern wheel / tire, I think a bigger bar is going to be helpful.     I don't think you need a splined, NASCAR style monster, but an oversize bar with new links would do just fine.   

Sub Frame Connectors??? Do we have those, I don't recall seeing them with the other parts, or have the already been ordered?  If they are weld in, I'd like to have them before we paint the underside of the car next week. 
I vote no pieces that look like swing set parts should be on this totally cool looking car.

Steve, the front bar is definitely worth it to upgrade. It will help tighten up the body lean in the corners and make the car that much more enjoyable to drive, especially if you have any tight highway on ramps to take or get any deer (cows?) in the roadway to avoid. I would suggest not getting a rear bar unless you are sure that the car will need it, as too much rear bar could cause an oversteer. For a cruising car that won't see much track time, you will probably do well enough with an upgraded front bar.

We need to get sub frame connectors I have none. I am open to what you guys recommend on thoses just let me know.
I see summit has a sale on sway bars for 125.00 but not sure if they are any good or if they are swing set ish. Lets plan on getting a after market front bar for  Routy, let me know what brand you guys are thinking I should get and a price.

Ah, sounds like everyone's got the right idea about putting together a rather capable handling car, but not over the top.  Very good!

Routy comes home from the blaster... Steve, time to think about how you'd like us to proceed.     The body tub is in really nice shape, but we've got some patchwork to do!

Yes that looks right and also needed are the tubes that run from the scoops to the ram air pans part number F12343

Is the black carpet molded for the trunk or is it bulk that you would have to cut to fit. I like the black carpet idea but it would be nice if it was made to fit.
If the carpet is not premade for the trunk then my next choice would be grey/white mats. I am not diggin the aqua with the red car.
 

Yes on the smart antenna looks good.
I really do not know much about the radio/speaker stuff and it very low on my list I guess I can look around some but I really don't care much about it. Like I said AM/FM/CD with an ipod plug would be cool  and a few speakers is all I need. I have a bunch of speakers here out of a 4 th gen firebird I could send down if you want to see about mounting them maybe we could grab a used monsoon system out of a fourth gen bird and install it since the dash is hacked up anyway?

I have the orginal glass for the car. I was going to ship down the back windows with the hardware still on it and try to remove the hardware from the front windows and attach it to a piece of cardboard with notes as to were it goes. Kevin told me he knows someone that can do a good job on the tinting with film so i guess if you guys are OK with using the tint film on the glass I am too.  I can send down both the front and rear glass and if it looks good enough you can just have it tinted and reuse it. just let me know which way you think would be best.

I think standard would be a good fit.

I think what ever was standard for the 69 TA would be a perfect idea thanks Kevin

We've been working on Routy's freshly sandblasted subframe.     Overall, it looks pretty good.   We replaced the body mount pads below the firewall, as they were rusty and previously repaired and didn't look as accurate as we'd like.   The main crossmember was crushed from jacking damage, so we welded on a new jacking plate, and we also restored the front lower nose piece of the subframe, as it was crushed from curb impacts or something.    I'll post pics of the repairs.    We're waiting on some materials, but we'd like to get the subframe painted up in the next couple days for reassembly!

Subframe photos:

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_040.jpg)
Subframe blasted

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_006.jpg)
Previous body mount repair

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_001.jpg)
We replaced the mounts, just need to drill the new bushing holes.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_018.jpg)
We re-welded some areas to make them a little nicer and stronger, and de-burred the original slag off the subframe.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_020.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_023.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_027.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_044.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.13.09sw/69FB03.13.09sw_070.jpg)
The original "nose piece" was smashed, so we made a replacement with 1x2 steel channel and formed it to contour with the original subframe.   Here you can also see the cross member jack plate we welded in... the original was crushed from jacking.   Still have to drill the drain hole.   Welding this was tricky, as the seams on the subframe were holding grease and oil, even though it had been blasted.   The oil would come to life as a 2-3 inch flame and blow all the welding shielding gas away, but even if you soaked this subframe in solvent, you'd never get it all out.   

Nice looking welds.

I'm surprised (but only a little) that GM made the cross-member jack plate thin enough to be susceptible to damage from jacking. 

Thanks Ze.    This car could have come down hard on the crossmember to crush it, but it was only pushed up in the middle with no scuff damage, so we can only assume jacking did it.    The front piece could have been smashed by a driveway or something.    Lots can happen in 40 years!

And Steve pointed out that these cars were meant to be jacked by the bumper, not the crossmember in the first place...

Just got the shipment of Eastwood Extreme Ceramic Chassis Black in house, so we're going to be shooting the subframe and some suspension parts in the next couple days.   

Cool can't wait to see it.
I got the 97 TA out today for some spring fever treatment and I moved the 68 out to the shop for some fine tuning I did not get to last year.

Good to see it stopped snowing up there!

GM should have just bulked up the crossmember to accommodate jacking, since raising a car from the bumper is the reason why I bought my GTO with a twisted front bumper...  True, a Firebird and GTO are very different cars (with different curb weights, although both came with bumper jacks in the trunk) , but sometimes you have to wonder what the engineers were thinking.

Steve
Do you have any upper control arms up there with threaded shafts?  The ones that came with the car require the bolt to hold the old bushing.  I want to put the Global West bushings in but the ones I want to use require the threaded shafts. I'm gonna check some of our favorite online stores to find a deal, but if you already have them, maybe that is the better plan. Thanks! 

I only have the stock 67-69 type shafts. Looks like we will need to get new shafts or the stud kit from GW to make them work.

Couple shots of the subframe primed with Eastwood Epoxy Primer...  this time, the paint is not going to peel off!    Next pics will be the subframe in Ceramic Chassis Black.   

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.23.09sw_001.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.23.09sw_021.jpg)

That looks great! Do you have any shots of the crossmember and nose that you fixed?

Not in primer, but we'll post 'em in black.     It looks pretty good.    The suspension parts, core support, inner fenders, and some misc. brackets will all be in Ceramic, so you won't have to worry about spilling brake fluid on them and hurting them.    It's strong stuff!

That brings up a question. I was hoping to use silicon brake fluid what is your view on that?

I don't think it's a good idea.    Word on the street is that it's good because it doesn't absorb moisture, but it does not perform as well as DOT 4 or 5 standard fluid.    It's also an extra expense.   If I recall, Baer recommends against it.   

I did not know that. I used it in the 68 because the car sits so much and of the moisture not getting absorbed.  I also heard it will not take the paint off if it is spilled. I guess I will have to keep an eye on it as far as the performance issues. I learn something every day.

The street rod guys love it because it never gets hot (they don't drive those things hard) and that it won't take off the paint.    Jeff Schwartz once gave me the "school" on the stuff... I'll take his word.   

Here's a couple of the Eastwood Ceramic Chassis Black right after the 1st coat was sprayed - it will level out some when the solvents all evaporate out and it hardens.    Lookin' good.    At least one more coat to go.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.24.09sw_043.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.24.09sw_057.jpg)
This is the nose guard and plate.

The rocker panels had holes and previous repairs at the rear sections, so we opened 'em up, blew out the mice nests, and plated it back up.   We used 1/8" plate to box the rocker with plug welds, then metal finished the edges.    It overlaps the seam like the stock wheeltub.   

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.24.09sw_008.jpg)
Many mice lived here...

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.24.09sw_026.jpg)
1/2 way through the perimeter tack welds.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.23.09sw/69FB03.24.09sw_037.jpg)

I wanted throw a link on here about the problems Pontiacs seem to have with running to hot. It is a huge thread that pretty much sorts out how to make your Pontiac mill run cool. One of the big tricks is making sure the water pump has the right clearance between the plate and the blades and to make sure the blades are cast iron not stamped steel. Many times we spend big money on aluminum radiators and electric fans and all they do is mask the problem. It’s a good read but pack a lunch because it’s close to 1000 posts long. I think the last post from the thread sums it up pretty well.
I just had my water pump die on my 70' Bonneville and decide to follow the suggestions on this post. After checking local auto stores, I finally found a water pump with a cast impeller from Carquest. The first one off the shelf was a stamped version and didn't match the picture on their screen but they checked their inventory and found two pumps with cast impellers. I had about an 1/8 clearance from the plate to the impeller out of the box and worked it down to about 1/16". Put it back together and did a maiden voyage. Everything looks good (no leaks) and the car seems a lot cooler. Thanks for the great advice.
Here is the whole thread : http://forums.performanceyears.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411256 (http://forums.performanceyears.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411256)

Rear package shelf repair

When Routy arrived, the rear package tray had been completely cut out.    There are new repro pieces available, but this time we're going for function, so we installed a flat sheetmetal shelf using a series of plug welds around the perimeter.    A factory piece could be installed someday if needed, but we think this will suffice.    Plenty strong and will support speakers if needed.    We may be adding a small underside brace, but not sure it's neccessary at this point.     This was another example of recycling... the steel came from the decklid of a parts car.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.28.09/69FB03.26.09s_006.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.28.09/69FB03.26.09s_012.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.28.09/69FB03.26.09s_016.jpg)

I have several comments.  I like green for the breakfast nook, but in the back seat not front.  I believe the beverages are up to the consumer on that particular day.  If you are going to sneak something, do not write about it on a forum,  And Kevin, thanks for recycling, but you are actually "reusing" because you didn't make it into something else.  Now that I am all caught up, what is next??? 
Thanks for all the great comments.  I am learning a lot.  julie

Rats I got busted! I guess I have to really start watching what I write in this thread now that The Mrs. has started reading it. I can't get away with nothing.   :(   Do you guys see the harassment I have to put up with on a daily basis?  ;)

Nice! 

Careful Steve.. she's on to you!

For what it's worth, we made that rear shelf out of a decklid from a different car, so I think that is recycling, no?   It was turned into something else...

As for what's next, I just got back from the spray booth shooting some epoxy on the sandblasted inner fenders, inside of the doors, and lots of misc. parts.    We have a bunch of video and photos to post in the next couple days.   

More parts stripping / painting... this time, it's the inside of the fenders, doors, and some misc. parts.    We didn't want to touch the outside bodywork yet, so just the underside of the fenders and insides of doors were media blasted.   There were a few areas that needed repairs, but not much.   The one door was reskinned, you can tell easily by the deep non-gm spot welds and the slight misplacement of the skin, but it's 100% usable as-is.    The only real issue we found was this fender patch.. it's about 3/16" below the fender surface, requiring a think filler layer to cover, or we go in an re-stitch a new piece.   Steve?

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_003.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_005.jpg)
Fixed a lower fender tab...

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_007.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_013.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_017.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_023.jpg)
Slight mis-alignment of door skin - looks like they over-ground the door shell when removing the original skin.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_024.jpg)
Deep spot welds, but holding fine. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_030.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_033.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_030.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_033.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_044.jpg)
This is what the GM installed skin looks like.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_049.jpg)
This is the fender patch.    The piece is about 3/16" recessed behind the fender surface.    We cut through 1/4" of filler to reveal this.   It's solid, but it's going to push the limit on filler.   Thoughts on this Steve? 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_053.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.10.09sw/69FB04.10.09sw_061.jpg)
All blacked in epoxy, never to rust again!  This is the first coat of 2... we used PPG DP-90 on these parts.

"This is the fender patch.    The piece is about 3/16" recessed behind the fender surface.    We cut through 1/4" of filler to reveal this.   It's solid, but it's going to push the limit on filler.   Thoughts on this Steve? "
I really do not want a thick coat of bondo. Do what you got to do to make it right.  I knew it was patched I just figured it was a better job than that.

I concur.   Not that it matters.  The black primer looks so nice!

Great.   We'll have it done in the next couple days!

Ah, progress, sweet progress!! ;D

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_001.jpg)
Old piece removed, new patch in place.    Note the trick little clamp allowing easy MIG welding... got 'em from Eastwood.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_004.jpg)
Closer shot of the clamp, it keeps a gap for the MIG wire to fill.   Allows for flat welds with minimal cleanup.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_008.jpg)
Backside of clamp.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_013.jpg)
The quick tack welds begin.    Tack!  Wait.   Move.   Tack!   Wait.   Move.   Repeat again and again. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_019.jpg)
Light grinding on a couple tacks... more to come.    Note low heat affected zone and blue discoloration in metal... quick tacks and jumping around keep the metal cool and warp-free.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_024.jpg)
After all the tacks are complete, the area is ground smooth... all done slowly to keep the heat out. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_029.jpg)
This stuff is cool.. it's a Standox 2k epoxy primer in an aerosol can.   That means it's got a primer and a catalyst in one container... you break the seal on the can, and the two components mix inside the can.   You have to spray it out within about 1 week or it will harden in the can.   It's really tough stuff that sprays great over little repair areas like this where you don't want to mix a whole gun full of material.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB04.16.09/69FB04.16.09s_034.jpg)
Primed and ready for bodywork phase.   Note the interesting body filler contour near the bottom of the panel... we didn't see any metal repairs behind this, so we're going to leave it for the bodyman to address.

Looking good. ;D Looks like you are getting most of the smaller stuff taken care of and once the floor/trunk pans are done we should start to see the car moving forward by leaps and bounds.

Here's the video on all the updates we've been posting above...

Great job you guys (I include Kelle when I say that for future reference  ;D  ). The Mrs. and I watched it together and we are both very happy with the job you are doing. Can’t wait for the next update!
 Steve

Thanks Steve - there's lots more to come.   Kelle has been instrumental, as have Nick and Tom.    Everyone's playing along at this stage of the game!

Sweet project guys, i also have the same car... but a little bit behind you. Mine needs full resto, engine rebuilt, and lots of rust repair but its do-able, and one of the best looking F-body cars around when finished. Just got mine started today after a little bit of distributor work and plan on starting the bodywork asap. Good luck with the project.

Welcome to the site!   Thanks for the comments... We had a messed up week in the shop, as our air compressor motor lost it's start switch, so we were down for a few days.    However, progress now continues on Routy.     Working on the floors now.   Metalwork is almost done!

Good to hear from a fellow Firebird fan.  Are you going full on stock restro or are you doing some upgrades? Steve

Steve,

Very cool project.  I must say that anytime I make it by the V8TV shop I'm always impressed with the effort they put in to make each part of a build right.  Good luck with the car and I can't wait to see the finished project.

Brett

Here's some snap shots of the floor replacement.   We elected to replace the driver side 1/2 floor pan with a new piece from Classic Industries to take care of all the little rust holes and previous repair work.   The new panel had a lip that folded down to meet the rocker panel in the original location, which we plug welded to look and hold like the factory original.   The remaining 3 sides were butt-welded for a clean appearance.   The seat support had to come out, as well as some smaller nut braces and the seat belt nuts, but they all went back in smoothly.   Video on the process to come. 


(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_012.jpg)

Right after welding and grinding.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_016.jpg)

Footwell area all solidified.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_018.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_027.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_030.jpg)

Rocker pinch weld looks original again. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_034.jpg)

A little primer and the repair is nearly undetectable.   We'll address a few grinder marks with some fiberglass later, but it's going to be super slick when finished. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_041.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB05.06.09sw/69FB05.06.09s_046.jpg)

View of the inside rear seat area... again, you'll never tell we were there.   Next up... the trunk floor!

Wow, Everything looks super. I am pretty dumb when it comes to figuring out which piece is what, so I really have no idea what is happening  "weld-wise".  But it looks good to the person that just sits in a driver's seat! After the primer goes on, I can't tell what is new and what was old.  Keep up the great work. I really like showing the video to the boys I teach.  They think it is pretty cool, too.   j

Thanks for the kind words!    The floor and trunk floor really came out nice.   We're putting the finishing touches on those videos now, and they should post this week.    We're trying to make this car look like it never had any work done to it on the bottom side.   

OK, here's some updates on the completion of Routy's floor and trunk floor.    We're still finishing the videos on both, but here are some more snap shots to bring you up to speed.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.17.09s_005.jpg)
Metal and filler work all finished... kinda ugly here, but not for long!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.18.09s_009.jpg)
V8TV new bodyman Nathan blows in some Eastwood 2K Epoxy Primer.   

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.18.09s_018.jpg)
That's better!    New trunk floor?   What new trunk floor?

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.18.09s_038.jpg)
All masked up and ready for 3M Automix Heavy-Bodied Seam Sealer.   This process takes some time, but the clean results are worth it.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.18.09s_042.jpg)
Tom lays a bead of 3M Seam Sealer with a pneumatic Automix gun.    Once applied, Nick comes through and brushes the sealer flat.  Then the tape is pulled and the lines are crisp and straight.   Be sure you pull the tape before the 2-part sealer sets up, or it will bond to the tape and you'll have to razor-knife it out. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.19.09s_002.jpg)
Seam sealed and scuffed with 320 grit sand paper and a red Scotchbrite pad.   Ready for the next layer of paint!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.19.09s_004.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.19.09s_009.jpg)
At this point, the entire bottom side was wiped down with a tack cloth and prepped with wax & grease remover right before being sprayed.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.19.09s_011.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.19.09s_014.jpg)
The whole bottom side of the car is getting sprayed with Eastwood 2K Ceramic Chassis Satin Black.   We're going to stop at the dash, as the Eastwood stuff stands up to just about anything, and we don't need chemical resistance on the dash in the interior of the car.    There are also better blacks that resist UV rays and fading than the Ceramic Satin, but for underhood and under-car applications, this stuff rocks. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_002.jpg)
2 coats of the Eastwood 2k Ceramic Satin Black, and the car has a bullet-proof underside with a factory-like sheen.   The Classic Industries reproduction floor and trunk panels fit great, and obviously look fantastic.    Nice pieces!

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_003.jpg)
No evidence of any repairs, inside or out. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_005.jpg)
Smoothed firewall looks slick.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_007.jpg)
Can you tell which side was replaced?

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_008.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_010.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB06.20.09s/69FB06.20.09s_011.jpg)
We'll blow some covering in the wheel houses to keep 'em from getting beat up, but we're happy with the way the bottom of this car turned out.    On to the next phase, painting the interior, inside the trunk, and we can start putting pieces back together to do the bodywork!

Classic Industries (http://www.classicindustries.com) - Floor and trunk panels & fuel tank braces
Eastwood (http://www.eastwood.com) - Epoxy Primer and 2K Ceramic Black Paint
3M (http://www.mmm.com) - Miles of tape, Automix Seam Sealer, Scotchbrite pads, Grinding Discs, Sand Paper, Roloc Wheels, Safety Equipment

Wow that looks nice.

Nathan just finished shooting the interior of the car, less the dash, and inside the trunk area.    Looks killer.   We'll post pics later.   

Here's the video on replacing the main cabin floor on Routy.    The process is pretty straightforward, and we think the results look great, as evidenced by the photos above.   The Classic Industries (http://"http://www.classicindustries.com) panel was really nice.. didn't take any crazy beating or extra work to make it fit.   

the floors came out realy nice and fit well. easy to finsh after being put in ;) overall came out looking very factory looking ;D

When are you going to do a show on mopar , like a 1972 Challenger there is one down in Washington Indiana I think you should have a look at it would be a good project for your show.

I'm sure there is no shortage of cars that need restorations.  The catch is that those cars also need to be owned by people who have the ability to pay for V8TV's [likely reasonable] shop fees.  If V8TV was in the habit of restoring cars at no cost to the owner, my GTO would be on a trailer headed in their direction right now.  Alas, they are not.

But I hear your point on switching things up a bit, and working on some non-GM cars.  A while back, Kevin asked what other kind of [non-GM] car we would like to see them restore.  I wildly suggested a fastback Mustang with custom fabricated independent rear suspension, based on the 1968 Shelby "Green Hornet" concept car.  This would undoubtedly be a very ambitious project, but it would certainly generate mountains of press, which is great for sponsorships, etc.  It would also just be flat out awesome.

But I digress...  We should keep this thread on topic, which is the '69 Routy Firebird.

Hey everyone, the car has been moving along sorry I have not had time to get back here and post more often.  My work has been crazy but should start to slow up some now.
The floors and trunk turned out very nice.
They have the sub frame bolted up and the sheet metal has been bolted on. I think a lot of the panel alignment has been done.
We decided to go with a new set of Baer brakes on all four corners and I think they are at the shop as I write this.
We tried the wheels on and the back spacing was wrong for the rears so we need to narrow the rear end or get a set of new rims. We are still working that out.
There is still a lot to sort out and hopefully we can get a dialogue running again as we make these decisions.
I guess the hood is fitting pretty well for a repo and they did have do some metal work to the body to get the alignment on the doors to rear  quarters and fenders how they wanted it. I know Kevin has a bunch of pictures to post so that should help give us an idea of what all has been done.
Steve
Here are a couple pics before any panel fitment was done

Here's some update shots of Routy along the way...

New trunk floor from Classic Industries installed and primed.    Video on trunk floor install to come. 

Interior shots, sprayed with Eastwood Extreme Ceramic Chassis Black.    The parts that are not painted are going to be shot with DuPont Hot Rod Black for better UV resistance to sunlight.

Little bodywork on the dash pieces before paint. 

We fixed the broken dash center.

Test fitting the 2002 Trans Am seats in the car.   The next shots show the brackets and how we re-made them to fit the '69 floor.

Here's a few shots of the subframe coming together... we installed some Global West Del-A-Lum control arm bushings in the upper and lower control arms to help the car handle better.   We had to make some quick shock / spring simulators, because we couldn't get the QA1 coil-overs to compress enough to install with no body or engine weight.   The plan was to install the front suspension on the subframe, then install the subframe, then the coil over assemblies. 

It's getting Del-A-Lum bushings in the rear Detroit Speed 3" lowering springs, too.   

Stoped back at the office for awhile and checked the thread. The work you are doing looks great.
Did Nick have enough head room? I think he is about the same size as me or a llittle taller right? I am about 5"8' maybe a little taller on a good day.
I really like the way you did the bracket mods a little paint and know one will be able to tell.
I can't wait to show the Mrs. the new pictures.

Yeah, Nick had the seat bracket all the way up in that shot, so we think there will be plenty of head room.     Glad you like the pics, there are more coming today!

Here's a few shots of the subframe coming together... we installed some Global West Del-A-Lum control arm bushings in the upper and lower control arms to help the car handle better.   We had to make some quick shock / spring simulators, because we couldn't get the QA1 coil-overs to compress enough to install with no body or engine weight.   The plan was to install the front suspension on the subframe, then install the subframe, then the coil over assemblies. 

Subframe with mock-up wheels, tires, and brakes.   Got a good deal on some Baer brakes for Routy, so those are on the way...

Aligning the body with the subframe.    The trick to getting this straight is to run pins through the lower gauge holes in the body through the holes in the subframe.   5/8" bolts worked great.   Also visible here are the new body bushings from Classic Industries.   We elected to run rubber bushings on this car for a new, quiet ride. 

Close-up of bolt aligning subframe.   Doing it at this stage saves lots of headaches!

Once the body was bolted to the subframe, we elected to completely rebuild the door hinges before hanging the doors.   This makes sure we don't have a floppy door issue and makes it easier to align the doors.   Nathan removed the warn-out original bushings and drilled the hinges for new, oversized steel bushings.   Then he replaced the pins and clips and springs, and now they are as tight and smooth as new.   The steel wears better than the original, too.   


Hanging the door.    Note core support installed.   Don't worry, the dog was not hurt during this exercise!

The mission was to hang all the sheetmetal on the car to begin the fitting / aligning / gap fitting process.   Here, Nathan and Nick mount the fenders and finally the new steel reproduction 1969 Trans Am hood.   So far, the hood seems to fit well, but we'll learn more as the process continues...

Hey its starting to look like a car again  ;D

Yeah, here's where things start to get ugly again!   

Progress is beautiful...even if it’s ugly
Hey Kevin,
I read on one of the Pontiac boards we may need to mess around a little with the latch assembly for the hood. The latch was slightly different between the 67-69 Firebirds and apparently the one on the repo TA hood is more like a 67 style. See pictures.
maybe ours is OK but better to check now than later.

We've got the latch installed and it seems to be OK.  What's the issue?   

I think it has to do with the hood not sitting right at the nose in relationship to the bumper. It looks to me that the nose of the hood will be pulled too far down if the hood is like the one in the second picture.
Based on my limited experience I strongly suggest you to get the bumper mocked up before you go too much farther with the front sheet metal line up. The Birds are a different animal then a Camaro is when it comes to this part of the build. If the guy that did my 68 had put the bumper on for the sheet metal alignment it would have saved us both a lot of money but that’s a story for a different day.

Yeah, we plan on installing the nose tomorrow.    I remember several people telling me what a pain in the a** the Firebird front sheetmetal can be.    Hopefully this one won't be too bad.    We'll see, I guess!

Looking really fantastic, guys!

Oh, and I recall that others have told me that narrowing a rear end isn't terribly uncommon or difficult.  If this is true?

Right, narrowing a rear isn't that hard.    Our dilemma is do we want to put all the time and effort into a 3.08 open-diff 10-bolt, when we might be able to get something else that's stronger with a better gear already narrowed...

Ah, I see.  I believe Curry Enterprises is calling.  This seems like it would be the easiest choice, but not necessarily the cheapest. 

Although, with the hourly labor fees that would come with finding a used 12-bolt LSD, and then making sure your Baer brakes fit, it might be the same cost as just going with a Currie setup in the first place.

That's kinda what we're thinking.   Plus add axles, bearings, set-up time, yadda yadda yadda... and a single call to Currie seems like a deal. 

Here's a quickie update:

It was a lot of fun drilling holes is my nice stright deck lid :-\ just wait til you see what i did today to it ;) I think it looks sexy in one color, finialy!!! ;D

I can't wait to see it all the same color. Now I am going to be distracted all day at work :)
I smell an iPhone update right Kevin.  ;)

That's very possible, Steve!

Here's a quick update from the spray booth as bodyman Nathan sprays the first of several coats of Standox Sprayable Polyester filler on our 1969 Firebird "Routy".    The Spray Poly is nice because it uniformly fills all the little sanding scratches, and being a spray product, it goes on quickly.   

The car looks great all in one color... Nathan sprayed more parts today.    Here's the update.

Great to see it all one color!
I sent the sport mirrors yesterday and you were right about putting on the chin spoiler. I think it needs it.
I ordered the tool for removing the hardware off the side glass so I should be able to get that stuff out to ya pretty soon.
Steve

Poor Nathan has been working his arms to the nubs sanding the Standox polyester spray filler on Routy.    The stuff sands easy, but it is a lot of work regardless.     Here, Kelle takes a walk around the car to see the progress.

Oh ya looks nice...crisp lines right on. Nathan is the man!
I just noticed that this project moved in to 2nd place as far as how may views it has  had. :o

Wow Steve, you must check this thread often!

Nathan would high-5 you, but he can't pick his arms up over his head right now...  ;D

Tell Nathan I see some beer and cheese in his future. I figured about 5,000 of those looks at the thread are from me!

Hey guys hope you are recovering from SEMA and all is well. I mailed the spark arrestor for the ram air system to you but it ended up coming back to me. I guess I did not have the address centered in the right spot on the box. I will remail it next week. Take care and enough goofing of in Vegas and back to work on Routy. ;D

Goofing around, huh?

It's been a grind and a half, but we're back to the real world next week.    We'll look for the arrestor in the mail.   

I can't imagine how many hours you had to put in over the last week and a half with the driving, trying to interview everyone, finding cool new stuff and producing it to put it on the site. You two seem to have quite a few irons in the fire all the time.  Catch your breath and try to enjoy the ride…you do have a pretty cool job and your good at it. It looks to me like you have a few cars getting close to exciting stage were you will start putting back together I am looking forward to watching them.   Take care Steve

OK Steve, time to make some decisions on the flush glass install.

We're using a flush glass kit from http://classicautoglassinnovations.com/ (http://classicautoglassinnovations.com/) in Routy.    There are a couple of options to choose from regarding the install of the glass.   This stuff looks super slick!

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/evade2.jpg)

First, we need to know your preference on the fender trim.    Originally, the car had a stainless piece at the top of the fender.   The options with the flush glass are to a:  Trim the original stainless to fit under the new weatherstrip like this pic:

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/000_0007-1.jpg)

B:  Use a piece of rubber trim instead of the stainless, this is black, and apparently the cowl seal rubber has the same profile as the orginal stainless and can be trimmed to fit and blends very nicely:  (this is the project Evade Camaro - it's sick, here's the build link:  http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50998&highlight=evade&page=9 (http://[url=http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50998&highlight=evade&page=9)] Evade [/url]
 
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww1/wpano/SEMA-2009/IMG_0625.jpg)

C:  Extend the base of the A-pillar in steel to not require the trim at all.    This pic shows the A-pillar so you can get an idea how much would need to be extended:

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/install9.jpg)

A, B, or C?

Next up, rear weatherstrip or not?

Option D:   With weatherstrip:

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/install17-1.jpg)

Option E:  Or without:

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/photo5.jpg)

(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Classic%20Auto%20Glass%20Innovations/photo43.jpg)

What do you think for the rear, D or E?

My preference would be:
 C - extend the A pillar
 E – without weather striping 


I think the chrome on the front is a no go since no drip rail molding or reveal moldings any more.
The rubber looks good on the black car not sure about it on a red car.
Extending the A pillar would be my first choice with the rubber second. How much of a problem would that be since the car is pretty much ready for paint right now?

The rear looks way better on the black car in my opinion but only if the glass to body seam / gap looks even and nice all the way around.  If not we need to put  the rubber around it.

Option E (flush mount rear glass without weatherstripping) is stunning.

The A-pillar extensions are nearly completed to accommodate the front glass.   Nathan extended the pillars making sure the fenders still fit, and all looks well so far!

Here's the "big" video on the install of new trunk pans in project "Routy".   Again, the Classic Industries (http://"http://www.classicindustries.com) panels were really nice.

Nice work everyone. Keep the updates coming my friend. I have a feeling there are a  bunch more to post.  :)   They make my day!

Thanks Steve, there are in fact many more updates to come.   The work the crew did on this one is really nice... it's going to be a sweet car!

Seeing this work on a fellow Poncho so makes me want to send my Can Am for the proper restoration....

NICE WORK!!!! 8)

Well Chris.. there IS some room in the shop!   

Trust me I really want to do it, especially after we swapped a few emails and talking on the phone. If I could get a couple things to work in my favor you will be hearing from me.

The Pontiac 400 V8 engine that we're using in our 1969 Firebird project called "Routy" came to us completely as a rebuilt log-block with all new parts inside, but we were charged with the task of doing the final assembly and detail work.   This time, we're test-assembling the brackets and parts on the engine, and came across a great tip to help keep your Pontiac V8 engine running cool.

By the way, here's a link to the made in USA valve covers! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PONTIAC-BLACK-ALUMINUM-VALVE-COVERS-326-389-400-455_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5b13125cQQitemZ130376995420QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

COOL!

I hope it's not too tight.. I'll bolt it up today to check again.   If not, we can simply tap it back a hair and it should all be good.    You'll also notice some slightly darker areas around the gasket mating surface on the plate.. we found some slight pitting in this area, so we applied some 2-part metallic epoxy and surfaced it when hardened to provide a better sealing surface for the gaskets.   

I found a thermostat housing but it's pitted and has some nicks in it . I am gong to look around some more today for a better one.

Got the t-stat housing blasted, doesn't seem TOO bad, but we'll see.

Was wondering where you purchased the TA hood, spoiler, and fender extractors?  How was the fit on each and are they do-able for a novice body man  working with original fenders, doors, etc.  Have you fitted the hood with scoops yet?  Thanks.  I'm working on a similar project, but going for more of a TA clone.

I picked up the hood and Ram Air intake stuff from The Parts Place out of Chicago. The rest of the parts came from Classic Industries. Classic Industries now has the hood as well. You could wait for one the their 20% off sales and pick up all the parts at one time. The guys at the shop will have to chime in about how much work was involved. The parts were all repos so there will always be some work needed to make them fit. I think the Hood scoops were the biggest challange.

the hood scoops required making mounts in the right places, then worked over to get them to fit the holes right. the hardest part was the hood to bumper filler piece.(OEM) had to marglass it to the right shape then make a mold and recast it. But fiberglass parts allway need love ::) some more than others ;)

Well, I bit the bullet and after much research decided to drive over the The Parts Place and pick up their Trans Am appearance package.  I opened up the hood last night and wanted to see how the scoops fit.  I think they fit pretty good.  I just placed them in the openings with the bolts in their respective mounting holes (didn't fasten them down). There was some speculation on Performance Years forum that the scoops had been re-done.  I was gonna pick up a new bumper filler while I was there since the bolts on my original are pretty rusty and one of the plastic tabs is broken off.  After seeing the "new" one I decided against it and will restore mine.  That think looked like the biggest POS part I have seen while restoring my 67 or 69 firebird.

Thats great. Post up a picture of them when you get a chance. I hope Joe treated you right on the price. I will be at the Jefferson swap meet at the end of the month I will have to take a look at them. You going?

After the metalwork was completed on the bottom side of our 1969 Pontiac Firebird "Routy", we applied some Eastwood Epoxy Primer to the underside and inside of the body shell to prevent rust and to provide a base for the next steps.   We then sealed all the seams with 3M Automix Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer (8308) using their pneumatic applicator.   We like to mask off the seams with 3M tape, then apply the sealer, brush it smooth, and then peel the tape before the sealer hardens.   The sealer ensures no moisture will creep between the panels and start to rust.  Once sealed up, we scuffed the primer and applied several coats of Eastwood 2K Ceramic Chassis Black on the bottom and inside of the body.    The 2K Ceramic Chassis Black looks like the factory black used on chassis parts, but is far more durable than regular paint. 

Body work is looking GREAT!!

Closing in on 40K views of the thread cool !

Keep clickin' Steve, it'll happen!

We reassembled our restored front suspension with some new tricks to make our 1969 Pontiac Firebird "Routy" drive and handle better.   First we replaced all the stock worn-out control arm bushings with some new Global West Del-A-Lum bushings for minimal deflection and smooth articulation.   Then we replaced all the loose steering components with new parts from Classic Industries , including a new steering box, tie rod ends, center link, ball joints, idler arm, and pittman arm.   Once we could put the wheels back on, we rolled the subframe under the body, aligned it, and bolted it up.   Out back, we added some Del-A-Lum bushings to the Detroit Speed & Engineering 3" drop leaf springs and put the rear axle assembly back in the car.    Classic Industries had more hard-to-find nuts and clips for the front leaf spring mounts.   Now we can hang all the sheetmetal back on the car and start the panel alignment! 

Cool video......... looking good.

Thanks Steve, it's really coming together.   In the next videos you'll see poor Nathan pulling his hair out getting sheetmetal to align, but the efforts were well worth it!

Hey , I mailed out the mirror parts Kelle was asking about . I see the driveshaft made it from the tracking number did the  start up gauges make it OK?

Got everything OK.  Thanks for shipping it all.   I've never seen such a big box sent with stamps!     The post office must love you!

Awesome pics and vids.  The car is looking great so far!

Shoot, the one video on getting clean seam sealer is gonna help me a ton!   ;D

I just paid the $$ never saw any stamps.

This is how your shipments of parts look when they make it to our shop...  funny to think the post office did all the stamps!

(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk96/vpics_photos/5fdf111a.jpg)

(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk96/vpics_photos/0c0affcd.jpg)

 I figured they just made up a  postage sticker deal .  I did not know they put all those stamps on it. Thats crazy man!

After the subframe was re-attached to our 1969 Pontiac Firebird "Routy," the reassembly began.  First up was the sheetmetal, nameley the doors, fenders, core support, and the reproduction steel Trans Am hood.   We had to do a few tricks to make them all line up correctly, but it wasn't too bad of a project.  Here's how the process went. 

Just got home from a long day at work and it was great to see a new video waiting for me. Great job on the car and on the video guys!

Dist hold down and lug nuts on the way.

It's ALIVE!     The videos have yet to catch up, but the 400 in Routy came to life the other day.   Man, that RAIV cam is sweet!

The 1969 Firebirds have a lot of pieces that comprise the nose, and in this video, we go through the process of making them all fit on our '69 'Bird called "Routy".   We mocked up the bumper using the original parts, then threw them all away in favor of a new bumper, headlight bezels, rubber fillers, and brackets from Classic Industries.   Then we modified the reproduction 1969 Trans Am hood to accommodate the Ram Air Pans and scoop inserts.  Finally, the car was bodyworked with 3M fillers and Standox sprayable polyester.   A lot happens here, you might want to watch it a couple times!

 ;D  Great job!

Ok, here's a big update... below you'll find 125 pages of pics of the Routy '69 Firebird, taking you from day 1 to the latest bodywork video!   

hi i love firebirds and when i saw this car i wanted one. Im in high school and love old cars i had a 1967 firebird and have loved the style but it was a serious project that i was unable to tackel because im the only one in my family that is car smart so it was sold. Now i fond a 1969 firebird and was wondering what i need to look for because i want to do some work but not a ton. the high school i go to is an automotive high schol and im in the auto body class and will be able to do the work there but i dont want to get somthing that is junk so where do these cars rust and what do i need to look for. thanks

Depending on where you live it it could be fine or have tons of hidden problems.

Personally I would take a small screw driver or something similar in size so you can check for places that are rusted through. I would pay extra attention to the following places:

Floor Pan
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/Steelshanks/Sigs/EpoxyPowerCoat_007-1.jpg)

Quarter Panels
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/Steelshanks/Sigs/EpoxyPowderCoat_B_034-1.jpg)

Now it is easiest to check these from underneath  the car if the interior is still in it. I would take the screwdriver and crawl around poking the underside of the sheetmetal and the frames. Not too hard, and don't poke the outside of the body and scratch the paint!

I have seen sheet metal and frames so rusted that the screw driver went straight through them. Sheet metal isn't that bad to replace but if you can poke through the frame I wouldn't buy it. Too much trouble.

Perhaps someone else a bit more "qualified" can give you some better suggestions. I am just passing along a few things I've heard.

EDIT:

Oh ya! Bring a magnet with you. You can use a magnet to check for large amounts of body filler (Bondo etc). Check a car you know is good so you can feel how hard it is to pull the magnet off the car. Large areas of thick body filler will have very little "pull" by the magnet.

I wouldnt check the ENTIRE car, especially if the paint is still good. Just check places you think might get damaged like front fender and rear quarterpanel for example.

how much do you think the car should sell for if its in like daily driver condition. it has a pontiac 350 needs some body work which i can do and has a new interior not installed. the picture makes the car look solid but pictures dont show everything. is there anything mechanicaly or engine wise i should look for oh and hears a link to the ad for the car   http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/1887279581.html (http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/1887279581.html)   thanks a bunch for the help

Pricing them... hmmm not my department. If you go take a look at the car and check for rust damage / take more pics then create a new thread in the Car Stuff (http://www.v8tvshow.com/forum/index.php/board,1.0.html) Section someone might be able to help you out. We don't want to de-rail this thread too much, its for the project car.

 ;)

Hey Super, welcome to the board!

Bones is right on his advice.   Here's another tip, go through this photo gallery - it's our '69 Camaro Royal Sport we restored a couple years ago... this car had ALL the typical F-body (Camaro / Firebird) rust areas, and you'll see 'em all in these pics.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Royal Sport Gallery ==> http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/Royal_Sport_Camaro/RS05/index.html (http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/Royal_Sport_Camaro/RS05/index.html)

thanks guys for all the help ill look at the car and get more info and keep u posted.

Some detail shots of Routy in Polyester...

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.10.09s_016.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.10.09s_022.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.10.09s_017.jpg)

The customized nose-filler piece that lives between the bumper and the hood.

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.10.09s_028.jpg)

After the polyester is sanded, the car is bagged and masked again for primer.   We're using a DuPont system on this car, so here's the primers being applied.     We go through TONS of 3M tape, mask paper, and plastic mask in the painting process... it never seems to end.   There are also gallons of cleaning solvents, towels, wax & grease removers, dust masks, gloves, respirator cartridges, paint suits, and razor blades used in the process.     

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.17.09s_001.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.17.09s_003.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.17.09s_008.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.17.09s_011.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.17.09s_030.jpg)

ROUTY is going to be powered by a Pontiac, and here's a look at the car's freshly-built 400.  It's a fairly mild engine, featuring a '73 400 block & crank, 9.5:1 compression ratio, a Ram Air IV camshaft, (231 intake / 240 exhaust duration @ .050",  0.516" lift with 1.65:1 rockers, 113 degree lobe separation angle),  and 1.65:1 roller rockers.   The heads are set of 1968 400 #16 port matched cast iron heads with new stainless valves and hardened seats.  We're going with a Professional Products Crosswind intake manifold.   It's shown here with a Holley carb on it, but we plan on running EFI in it's final iteration.   The wrinkle-black valve covers will be used, but in a different color.   

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB10.10.09s_001.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB10.10.09s_004.jpg)

We elected to paint the block, heads, and timing cover in a Gunmetal color, which is going to be used on Routy's tail panel and in the stripes on the side of the car.    The intake and valve covers will be powedercoated an aluminum gray to match the pinstripes on the side of the car. 

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB12.16.09_001.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB12.16.09_007.jpg)

We used dished pistons to get 9.5:1 comp with the #16 heads. The cly were bored 30 over and we used forged rods and ARP fasteners. It is also getting Ram Air exhaust manifolds.
Nice pictures Kevin

Thanks Steve, I had forgotten about the dish.    Catching up on pics today!

Backtracking a little here, but I thought it was important to show one of the sanding tricks Nathan uses to make these cars so straight.     

In these pics, you'll see the car dusted with a 3M dry powder guide coat (http://"http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=GSX39WMYJSgs4CCRDFQ26JglQX28R3361Cbl").   This stuff is great, it is a dry guide coat you apply with a foam pad by hand.   One tin will last for more than 2 complete cars, and you don't have to worry about solvent incompatibilities with an aerosol can.    Just rub it on, then block sand it off.   It makes it easy to see where you need to sand, and also shows high and low spots in the work.      Also seen are the Durablock sanding blocks  (http://"http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html")to keep everything straight. 


(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.09.09s_003.jpg)

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB_W_09/images/69FB09.09.09s_005.jpg)


(http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/250x160/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p8564.jpg)

After completing all the bodywork on our 1969 Pontiac Firebird, we disassembled the body to paint the tub with  DuPont Hot Hues  (http://www.hothues.com) Red Hot Meltdown 2-stage urethane.   After the red had flashed, the crew masked off the jambs and sprayed them with DuPont Clear.   Then the fenders, doors, hood, and other parts were shot red, and the jambs and backsides cleared.  It looks good in red!

Love the red rock on! ;D

JEALOUS is such an understatement for me right now... GREAT WORK!!  8)

I hear that Routy is already winning awards... again GREAT WORK to the V8TV crew!   ;D

Many people have been asking about Routy's flush glass from Classic Autoglass Innovations  (http://www.classicautoglassinnovations.com).   Here's some shots of the mods we made to the car, but you don't have to do anything.     By the way, this glass is available at Classic Industries. (http://www.classicindustries.com)

We elected to extend the "A" pillar to make the transition smoother from the flush windshield to the pillar area.  

Stock pillar:

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.09.10s/69FB03.09.10s_001.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.09.10s/69FB03.09.10s_005.jpg)

We simply built a steel extension and welded it on the end of the pillar, and modified and lengthened the rain gutter to match.  

Extended passenger side pillar:

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.09.10s/69FB03.09.10s_008.jpg)

Extended driver side pillar

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.10.10s/69FB03.10.10s_001.jpg)

After some final sanding and filler work:

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.10.10s/69FB03.10.10s_014.jpg)

This way, the base of the glass will line up with the bottom of the pillars.

Here's some still shots of Routy turning from primer to  DuPont Hot Hues  (http://www.hothues.com) Red Hot Meltdown!

Routy's body all masked off for basecoat.   The inside, dash, firewall, and bottom side are all painted satin black at this point, and we mask and bag everything we can to prevent any overspray anywhere.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_002.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_004.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_010.jpg)

These pour spouts are available from Eastwood (http://www.eastwood.com) and are super handy for preventing spills and storing paint in cans.  

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_013.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_015.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_025.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_034.jpg)

After the tub was in basecoat, the body was masked to clear the jamb areas.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_036.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_039.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_031.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_028.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.17.10s/69FB03.17.10s_024.jpg)

After the body tub was in color and jambs cleared, we brought in all the body parts, and again masked the back sides to keep the overspray off the blackened backsides. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_002.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_006.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_009.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_012.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_014.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_015.jpg)

Note the mask paper and tape inside the door... it takes a little more time, but the results speak for themselves. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_020.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_021.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_022.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_024.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_027.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_036.jpg)

After the color is flashed and cured, the outside AND insides are masked to prepare for the clear to cover the jamb areas.    As you might have guessed, there is a TON of 3M masking tape, paper, and plastic used to paint a car.   But again, the results are worth the efforts.    Nathan's meticulousness pays off every time. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_051.jpg)

Once cleared, these parts look like they are carved from lipstick, right out of the SATA gun!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_053.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_057.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_061.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_072.jpg)

And this is before any wetsanding or buffing has taken place.   

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.24.10s/69FB03.24.10s_077.jpg)

Body base-coated, jambs cleared, and un-masked.    The roller wheels don't help the look at this point, but the car is coming together.   

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_004.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_006.jpg)

Painted parts... hinges, mirrors, scoop inserts, bezels, side extractors...

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_009.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_013.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_015.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_027.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_024.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_018.jpg)

We're building this car to have awesome drivability, and we wanted to use components that could stand up to some occasional punishment.   It's no secret that the Currie 9+ rear axle systems are up to the challenge.  We already had the Boyd's Junk Yard Dog wheels and Nitto 555 tires, so we worked backwards and fit the rear axle to the car and wheels.   In this case, we used a custom narrowed Currie housing loaded with a Nodular iron center section, 3.25:1 gears, a Detroit Truetrac differential, and 31 spline Currie axles.   The Truetrac is a nice piece because it offers smooth, quiet operation, and locks automatically when needed.   Once it was painted and installed, we added a Baer Track 13" rear disc brake kit.   In front, we again used a Baer Track kit with 13" rotors and dual piston calipers for awesome stopping power.   An Eastwood powder coated CPP master cylinder and stainless brake lines from Classic Industries round out the system.   

Some pics of the www.currieenterprises.com (http://www.currieenterprises.com) 9+ rear axle housing and parts...

31 Spline axles
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_050.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_054.jpg)

New fabricated 9" housing, cleaned and painted in Hot Hues Hot Rod Black..
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_058.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_062.jpg)

9+ Nodular Iron center section installed, 3.25:1 gears, Detroit Trutrac limited slip differential.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_052.jpg)

Baer Track 13" front brake rotors

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_080.jpg)

Baer hubs come pre-assembled and greased!
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_082.jpg)

2-piston calipers
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_084.jpg)

CNC machined caliper brackets
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_089.jpg)

Passenger side assembly installed, note braided stainless hose that comes with the kit
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_069.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_078.jpg)

New CPP Corvette style master cylinder is part of the kit, we powdercoated ours with the www.Eastwood.com (http://www.Eastwood.com) kit.    (This is uncoated)
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB03.26.10s/69FB03.26.10s_111.jpg)

The time came to install the rebuilt 1973 Pontiac 400 into our '69 Firebird.   It's running a rebuilt bottom end, roller rockers, #16 Pontiac iron heads, a Professional Products intake manifold, Holley carb, MSD ignition, Royal Purple break-in oil & filter, and Eastwood coated long-branch exhaust manifolds leading to MagnaFlow exhaust.  

I am so impressed with this build. GREAT WORK!

We wanted our 1969 Firebird to be fun to drive, and that ment keeping the interior free from unwanted noise, and climate controlled.   This time, we're installing Hushmat (http://www.hushmat.com) sound deadoner and heat insulation in the cabin, then adding a Vintage Air  (http://www.vintageair.com)A/C system to keep the occupants cool.  Some reproduction 1969 Trans-Am style gauges and dash pieces from Classic Industries (http://www.classicindustries.com) as well as a Flaming River (http://www.flamingriver.com) tilt steering column complete the job.  

Doin' the Hushmat (http://www.hushmat.com) Boogie... covering the whole interior and inside the doors...

Rehanging the sheet metal on  Routy's body shell.   This takes TONS of patience and 3M tape to make sure you don't smash and scratch up your new paint.    We had previously drilled guide pins to make the panels go back together quicker without spending hours and hours realigning them, but it still takes time.

Installing the Flaming River (http://www.flamingriver.com) tilt steering column, again wrapped in 3M (http://www.mmm.comm) tape to keep it from getting scratched up or scratching up the firewall...

Engine and brakes coming together... lots of Eastwood Powder Coating (http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html) in this shot, ranging from the master cylinder and cover, the valve covers and intake, and other brackets and stuff. 

Hurst shifter rebuild & clean-up, and the rebuilt Muncie M20 4-speed in place.

More engine details... hoses installed, power steering lines & pulleys, alternator, A/C compressor.   Some brackets and pulleys are original GM, some are OER parts from Classic Industries,  (http://www.classicindustries.com) but they all look correct.  

The A/C compressor and bracket are from Vintage Air (http://www.vintageair.com) and they fit very well.  


Here's a shot of the passenger side where we tried to cleanly route all the hoses.   You'll note the upper heater line that goes along the firewall, that's actually a copper hard pipe inside of black shrink-wrap allowing us to run it in a more manageable manner and more out of the way than a rubber hose.


Also note the MSD Pro-Billet Distributor (http://www.msdignition.com) and black Super Conductor plug wires cut to size.   There's also an MSD Blaster SS ignition coil on the firewall.  

In the previous engine start video, I mentioned the MagnaFlow (http://www.magnaflow.com) "Problem Solver" tube (pn 10741) that gives you just about everything you could want to attach a MagnaFlow exhaust kit to any type of header or manifold.    It is stainless, straight, curved, 45'd, flanged, and all mandrel bent in one piece.   Nice. 


Speaking of manifolds, we ran some repro Pontiac Long-Branch headers from Ram Air Restoration (http://www.ramairrestoration.com/catalog/) that fit very nicely, once we got the proper oil filter adapter.   (There are 2, one for A bodies and the other for F cars like ours...)

The long-branch design breathes easy, fits tight to the block, and keeps things quiet.   We coated ours with some Eastwood (http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=Q&srid=S1-6&lbc=eastwood&ts=custom&w=header%20coating&uid=455916248&cnt=15&method=and&isort=score&view=grid&srt=15) header coating.   It keeps them looking like fresh cast iron, but they have other colors if you choose. 

Cool to see all the work that goes into a car like Routy.

I really like the long branch exhaust manifolds.  Not too crazy about a black engine, though.  But who knows, it may end up looking stellar. 

It's kinda hard to tell here, but the engine is actually a dark gunmetal metallic color, which is the same color as the inside of the stripes on the exterior of the car.    It's not light Pontiac blue, but it all ties together nicely.   

I need a "drool" smiley  8)

Thanks guys!   Yes, it's really turning out to be a  very nice car.

Here's the fresh 400 just about to fire, with the cut valve covers for setting the valves with the car running.   You can also see the temp throttle and choke levers allowing these to be managed from the front of the car, as well as our temp fuel system.  

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_002.jpg)

We like to start 'em on a reliable Holley 750 manual choke carb, taking away any variables with starting.   It's going to be a Holley EFI (http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Holleyefi) car when done, but the break-in was on the carb.  

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_004.jpg)

After it ran, it was time to turn it into a driving car, and get the sheet metal back on and into the paint booth for final color and clear coats.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_030.jpg)

OK, on to the flush glass install from Classic Auto Glass Innovations. (http://www.classicautoglassinnovations.com)  The glass installs like any late-model factory glass, and you have the option to keep the studs around the window openings should you wish to someday return to the stock trim.    These are also avaialbe form Classic Industries. (http://www.classicindustries.com)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_032.jpg)

Here's a close-up of the extended A-pillar we made to smooth the look...

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_033.jpg)

Rear window channel area all blacked out and ready for the new glass.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_036.jpg)

New flush windshield, note blacked out perimeter with late-model matrix pattern, top edge sunshade, slight tint, and windshield mount antenna.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_041.jpg)

Antenna connection...

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_046.jpg)

The first step is the adhesive backed foam "dam" that keeps the glass urethane from oozing into the interior cabin area.    Note the A-pillar is in primer.. we had a little paint issue to fix along the way with the rain gutters.   One advantage of our approach is that the car is fixable along the build process, we didn't ruin the final color or clear. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_050.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_051.jpg)

Here's the windshield set in place.    Be sure the glass installer sets enough glue in the channel to make the glass height match the surface of the car so the trim fits nice.   Also be sure to get the perimeter gaps correct.

Interior view, nice and clean. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_057.jpg)

Rear glass has a nice tint installed...

We'll show the trim after the car goes through the final color and clear process.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_042.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_056.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_080.jpg)

Our buddies at Extreme Powder Coating (http://www.extremepowdercoating.net) applied the smoke charcoal treatment to the center of the Boyd's Junkyard Dog wheels.   

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_083.jpg)

It's starting to look like a car!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_088.jpg)

Inner fenders installed with more wiring, brackets, and Vintage Air goodies...  (http://www.vintageair.com)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_090.jpg)

In this video, prep our 1969 Pontiac Firebird "Routy" with 3M wetsand paper, tape, and mask paper and bring it to the booth for final application of DuPont Hot Hues Red Hot Meltdown color.   Part 1 of 3. 

The paint sprayout continues with our 1969 Pontiac Firebird project "Routy."  This time, we're spraying DuPont Hot Hues Red Hot Meltdown color and intercoat clear in preparation for the painted stripe treatment next.   We're spraying with the 3M PPS system to minimize cleanup time and solvents, and to  help measure the mixture accurately.   Eastwood Pour-It lids also make things easy, and SAS Safety gear keeps everyone in top shape.    Once the color was applied, a 3M Sun Gun was used to check the coverage.   Part 2 of the paint application series.

Good Times! ;D

The final video covering the paint process on our 1969 Pontiac Firebird project "Routy."  This time, we're laying out the stripe design and spraying the DuPont silver and Gun Metal stripes.   Later, we do the initial wetsanding with the 3M Trizact system, including the new 3M Denibbing gun.  (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Featured_Products/Denibbing/)  Lastly, we polish the car using 3M products.   Next is the final assembly and installation of Holley's Avenger EFI system.

Here's Routy right before entering the paint booth for it's final color coats.   At this point, the car has been completely cleaned and wetsanded to 600 grit in preparation for the final color coats and clears.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_116.jpg)

You'll note the rear decklid is in primer.. the piece was painted red, then we later noticed a small imperfection in the surface after install.   Nathan felt it was important to re-prime and block sand the decklid's surface without disturbing the color and clear on the inside and in the jambs.   This is a great example of why we assemble the cars this way and shoot the final colors and clear once the body panels are assembled and aligned... you can fix any assembly scratches easier.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_119.jpg)

Routy masked and in the booth, ready for more color!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_123.jpg)

The car gets masked with 3M papers and tapes, then the underside is wrapped in 3M plastic to prevent any overspray on the car's bottom surfaces. 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_125.jpg)

Shot through the booth window, so it's a little blurry, but Nathan laying out the stripes and rear panel masking..

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_130.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_135.jpg)

Matching the stripes to the Hermance Design (http://www.hermancedesign.com) rendering.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_142.jpg)

 

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_144.jpg)

The red is protected by an inter-coat clear, upon which the stripes are laid out.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_146.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_148.jpg)

Silver and Gun Metal sprayed.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_152.jpg)

The unmasking begins!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_158.jpg)

Routy emerges from the booth, striped and cleared!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_166.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.09.10s/69FB07.09.10s_171.jpg)

Next up:  Wetsanding the clear and buffing!

Back in the shop, Routy gets wetsanded using the 3M Trizact system, which removes the surface imperfections.   The paint is now flat in texture, but not shiny at all.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.14.10s/69FB07.14.10s_003.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.14.10s/69FB07.14.10s_006.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.14.10s/69FB07.14.10s_016.jpg)

Next, Nathan whips out the 3M buffing compounds and wool pad buffer and starts to bring out the shine!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.15.10s/69FB07.15.10s_001.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.15.10s/69FB07.15.10s_004.jpg)

Out in the yard after the initial polish and a bath!   Keep in mind that this car will be buffed and polished several more times and hand polished, but it's looking killer now!

Here you'll also see some of the trim installed, like the P-O-N-T-I-A-C letters and the Firebird badge on the tail, and the marker lights.  These came from Classic Industries (http://www.classicindustries.com) and look like jewelery!

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.20.10s/69FB08.20.10s_004.jpg)

At this point, the new 400 Pontiac V8 had some running time on it, so we embarked on the Holley Avenger EFI (http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Holleyefi) fuel injection swap.  

We were impressed with the completeness of the kit, that it came with not only the ECM, throttle body, and hand-held controller, but also the complete fuel system down to the hose clamps.    

(http://www.v8tvshow.com/images/stories/videos/69Firebird/HolleyAvengerEFI.jpg)

We used an MSD Pro-Billet distributor for the ignition duties.   After a couple hiccups along the way... mostly ground related, our Pontiac 400 came to life and the system worked perfectly.    It's easy to set up, tunes itself in learning mod, offers datalogging, expandability, and more.   The drivability is sweet, the power is instant, and the car exhibits refined manners.   The Avenger EFI system lived up to Holley's claims and then some.  

Wideband O2 Sensor installed in MagnaFlow exhaust
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.29.10s/69FB07.29.10s_002.jpg)

Test fit of Holley throttle body.  
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB07.29.10s/69FB07.29.10s_009.jpg)

Initial connection of supplied harness... these wires are eventually all hidden below the intake.  
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_018.jpg)

Holley Avenger ECM mounted to inner fender well.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_034.jpg)

More assembly, before wires are hidden...
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_021.jpg)

Underside shot, MagnaFlow (http://www.magnaflow.com) exhaust visible, along with Eastwood (http://www.eastwood.com) coated manifolds.   Note oxygen sensor install in driver side exhaust pipe right behind manifold.   The fuel pump and filters are now mounted just in front of passenger rear wheel.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB09.14.10s/69FB09.14.10s_017.jpg)

Holley supplied fuel system in place.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB09.14.10s/69FB09.14.10s_030.jpg)

Holley Avenger EFI Install Video Part 1:

Part 2 of the Holley Avenger EFI Install:

If anyone in the Chicago area would like to see Routy in the flesh come to the World of Wheels show at Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, IL  on March 4-6. We were invited as a VIP entry and plan to be in the show. We are working on the display right now and the entry form has been mailed out. It should be a good time and hopefully the V8TV crew will able to stop by for awhile as well.
Steve
 LINK TO SHOW
http://www.autorama.com/casi/show/spectator/chicago.php (http://www.autorama.com/casi/show/spectator/chicago.php)

We're in the home stretch assembling Routy's interior, wheels, emblems, weatherstripping, and all the little details to make it a complete car.  A final buff with 3M Perfect-It Microfinish Compound and a foam pad makes it gleam, and then a hand-buff adds sparkle.   We had the wheels coated at Extreme Powdercoating to offset the colors of the paint scheme.   The restoration parts from Classic Industries look like jewelery, and Routy is standing tall.

cant wait to see this thing step it up a notch :)

The final assembly in photos..

Core support details installed, hood latch, horns, Vintage Air A/C receiver / dryer, and forward lamp harness.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_002.jpg)

These are the milled hex-head bolts we referred to in the video.   Not how nice and flush the rearward bolt is as opposed to the front one.   Originally, these used 6-point body bolts, but we wanted something a little cleaner here that "disappeared" when the hood was closed.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_005.jpg)

All the hardware is new in the car, courtesy of an AMK fastener kit we got from Classic Industries. (http://www.classicindustries.com)   These are all new fasteners, and they come bagged and labeled in each category.   The categories actually match the factory assembly manual.   It's a huge time-saver, and they are really nice, with the exact finish the originals had in each instance. 
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_007.jpg)

Nothing goes back together without the instructions, and here's a shot of the nose pieces as printed in the reproduction assembly manual.   
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_009.jpg)

The interior is going in smoothly.    We obtained an original console and restored it, (eBay,) using original trim and new OER pieces from Classic Industries.  The black is DuPont Hot Rod Black satin.  We installed the original 4-speed trans, but restored the linkage with a new bushing and clip kit, then polished the old Hurst shifter and ball.     The door panels, carpet, seat belts, shift boot, dash pad, armrests, door handles, window cranks, weatherstrip "fuzzies," lock knobs, and all the other little detail items are OER parts from Classic Industries. (http://www.classicindustries.com)   These items make the car feel completely new inside... 'cause it is!
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_010.jpg)  

The rear seat was custom re-upholstered to match the 2002 Trans Am front seat material and pattern... but it looks right at home in the '69s interior.  
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_012.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_052.jpg)

Jewelery!
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_024.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_041.jpg)

The nose / bumper comes together..
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_016.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_033.jpg)

Restored turn signals with new lenses and chrome.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_049.jpg)

New grille inserts, we left the "Pontiac" badges out to make 'em look cleaner.   We also painted the silver ring inside black for a more aggressive look.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_054.jpg)

Boyd's Jynk Yard Dog wheels, with the centers powdercoated by our pals at Extreme Powder Coating (http://www.extremepowdercoating.net).  17x8s in front, 18x9s in the rear, with Nitto NT555 tires all around. 
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_025.jpg)

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_059.jpg)

Nathan & TJ fittin' pieces, Mark shooting video...
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_057.jpg)

Nathan hanging the lower valance, Nick startled by the license plate bracket...
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_070.jpg)

Fitted and painted scoop insert, wetsanded andready for buffing.   
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_030.jpg)

Cowl screen and lower valance panel waiting for installation.
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_028.jpg)

A blurry shot, but the nose is basically installed.    Missing are the hood scoop inserts, and the hood and bumper assembly need some alignment tweaking in this pic.   But it was the end of a long day, and sometimes you just have to walk away from a project to clear your head.  All those little pieces are tricky to align and fit properly!
(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_087.jpg)

Things are lookin' tight out back, with the wing installed, the bumper, Pontiac badges, side marker lights, and plate assembly.   Note installed rear window trim around the flush glass.

(http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/69_Firebird/69FB08.27.10s/69FB08.27.10s_047.jpg)

great great job guys! :)

I have said it before and I will say it again, the V8TV crew does some really nice work. I would give anything to turn my Pontiac over to you for this same kind of work. Perhaps I need a sponsor  ;D

At long last, here's the final feature video on Routy!

Be sure to check out the new Routy page with ALL the videos and build pics (THOUSANDS!) at www.v8tvshow.com/routy (http://www.v8tvshow.com/routy) !

That is a fantastic video one more home run guys.

Whoo yaaa 100,000 views and still climbing I can't belive it.

Newsflash!! V8TV-built 1969 Firebird "Routy" wins Best In Class at the 2011 Chicago World Of Wheels Show! Congrats to owner Steve Prouty and the V8TV Crew!

Congratulations to Routy and all the V8TV crew!! Well deserved honors at such a large event.

this car is great,for me it should be stay on its color,I like red guys...Thanks for staying it's color guys..your the great crew:) (http://breastenlargementpittsburgh.com/blog-pittsburgh-pa)

I went to World of Wheels and saw Routy and talked with Steve Prouty for a few minutes.  Real nice guy who couldn't say enough good things about the V8TV crew and the quality job that was done on Routy.  I took some pics but they're a bit dark as the exposure on my camera was set too low and I didn't realize it until after I left. 

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0216.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0214.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0215.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0211.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0213-1.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0212.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0210.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/TheQball/DSCN0220.jpg)

Thanks for posting the pics!   We're glad you had a chance to meet Steve, he is a really cool guy and we have become good friends through this experience.   

What did you think of the car having seen it in person?

I thought it looked absolutely dynamite.  I was scrutinizing the paint quite a bit, you know, looking for things that can't be seen through video and digital pics.  I have to say, the paint looked so flat and flawless, and by flat I mean no seams showing, no orange peel etc... Looking at it was like looking at a red tinted mirror, it was that clear.  Very impressive work.  As soon as my ship comes in, I'd love to have y'all give my GTO the same treatment.  I've watched a lot of your project cars and I like the work you guys (and gal) do and how well you pay attention to detail with the things you see as well as those you never will.  

Wow, that's a heck of a compliment!    We're glad you liked the car, we feel the crew did a great job with the car.   Glad you got a chance to see it in person, sometimes cars in pics or video look great until you see them up-close.   This car definitely looks awesome in person, too!

steve, i wonder if you will use metallic gray on your car. i have seen one porche vintage sports car passing in downtown new york with that color and it's awesome. when it hits directly by sunlight, light rays absorption can produce lesser color reflection. so, it can be seen by observers quickly. but steve, all are depends on your taste of color. it's only a suggestion. :) (http://www.breastenlargementpittsburgh.com/breast-plastic-surgeries/breast-enlargement-pittsburgh-pa)

Um.... The car was painted last summer but yes the gray used on the cars stripes and tail pan  was metalic. Thanks
Steve

I thought I would update what’s been going on with Routy. I am sure you are all thinking I am driving her around going to cruise nights, shows and long Sunday drives with the family. That’s not the case. I noticed a ticking coming from the passenger’s side valve cover and figured it need a valve adjustment which I did and it sounded fine. I short time later the ticking was back. Long story short is I lost a cam lobe on her and 3 cam bearings are messed up. I pulled the cam out with the engine in the car hoping to just replace the cam and lifers but since the bearings are damaged I had to bite the bullet and pull the engine. The engine is now back to the engine builder and am waiting to hear if the main bearings and rod bearings are damaged as well. I am taking this as an opportunity to upgrade from the flat tappet to a nice Comp Cams roller set up. I have all the parts at the shop with the engine and the builder is shooting for the end of June to have her back together.  It was nerve racking pulling the engine on a car with such a beautiful paint job but so far so good.  I really have to thank Kevin and Comp Cams big time for helping get me set up with the new roller. I think it’s going to be a great upgrade for the car. My buddy Bob Krueger also spent a bunch of time digging up information for me as well and is going to help with the engine install when I get it back. I plan to update the thread as the project goes along as well.

This sucks but is cool at the same time... as you can imagine, we were all disappointed to hear that a problem developed with the cam, but we like the Comp roller upgrade idea.    Flat tappet cams are gambles these days, and we did everything possible to prevent lobe problems.   The start-up and break-in all went smoothly, but it developed the issue after racking up some miles on the engine.    Rollers don't have that issue.   Thanks for the update, and keep us posted on the progress... oh yeah, and DON'T SCRATCH IT!!   :)

Just got the run down form Wayne ( engine builder). The block and heads are fine  but the crank needs to be regound. Looks like he might have it fixed and ready for me to pick up by the end of June. Keep your fingers crossed.

It is comments like this that will keep me from using a flat tappet cam on my Pontiac motor. Even though the cost is more, it is cheap piece of mind knowing my chances are greatly reduced when going with a full roller set up. I highly recommend the use of the Sims Plate, it is a cam retainer plate with needle bearings to help reduce friction. This is a piece made specifically for Pontiacs. I found it on the Performance Years forum.

Chris

Yes I am now a beliver in the roller cam. I was told by more than one person to step up and spend the money from the get go but I was stubborn.
It cost me a good chunk of cash and alot of time to learn but learn I did. I can't wait to get her back on the road. I Hope to have  the car fixed and burning rubber by the first week of July. I have places to go and things to do with Routy this summer!

Steve,

Post up the specs of the cam you chose!

it was a 3 stage pearl ;)

I now remember you guys told me that I guess I had a brain cramp on that.

I wanted to just post a quick update on the engine. It’s back in the car and running. I took it on the first test run yesterday and everything seems to be working great. the cam is a Comp cam hydraulic roller and I used the comp cams lifters and springs they recommended. The specs on the cam are
 Duration at .050 intake 224 exhaust 230 
Lift at .050 intake .502 exhaust .510
We had the LSA ground at 112
I am getting ready to take it to Dayton OH this week end for the Trans Am Nationals so I have to get back to work. I will update again from the show and add some pictures. If anyone is at the show stop by the car and say HI    ;D ;D
Thanks Steve

Glad that Routy is back on the road.  I wish I could say the same for my GTO. 

Congrats to Steve Prouty and the Routy Firebird for winning 2nd in Class & the Marriott's Choice award at the Trans Am Nationals! What's even cooler is that the car got photographed for a feature story in High Performance Pontiac Magazine! Way to go, Steve!

Hi Everyone!

I am new to the forum and late in the game.  The build is awesome and the Bird looks Great!  Congrads on all the awards... those involved deserve it! 

I too am doing a build up on a 69 Firebird and have a few questions on some details. 

On the Air Conditioning (Vintage Air) -  What generation of Vintage Air unit did you use?  Generation IV or is it the older "Cable Operated Unit".  The reason I ask is that on the Vintage Air website they list only the "Cable Operated Unit" for the 69 Firebird.  I understand this is due to OEM controller having to be adapted to run the Vintage Air unit and the OEM AC controller not being adaptable.   I noticed in some of pictures, perhaps early in the build, it looks like you have the OEM AC controller.  I guess what I would like to know is what AC controller are you using and what Generation of Vintage Air do you have?  Cable or GEN IV?

For my 69 Firebird, I would like to use the GEN IV unit and attempt to adapt a OEM non AC controller from a Firebird or one from a Camaro (67 or 68) to run the GEN IV unit. 

Your thoughts, comments, information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

It was part number  55069-VPZ-A I  hope that helps maybe kevin can jump on here and help out as well.

Here are a few pictures from the Trans Am Nationals
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Trans%20Am%20Nationals%202011/march_137.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Trans%20Am%20Nationals%202011/march_134.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Trans%20Am%20Nationals%202011/march_136.jpg)
Routy posing for her close ups
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Trans%20Am%20Nationals%202011/march_146.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Trans%20Am%20Nationals%202011/march_144.jpg)

Okay...

Got it, that part number is the traditional cable operated system.  Thanks for the info!

How did you figure out where to mount the fender extractors and cut the holes?

They had a Pontiac assembly manual like the factory used I think.

I have a 1969 Firebird assembly manual and can't find it.

I recognize that guy, that is Tom DeMauro from HPP. Super nice guy, he has attended the Pontiac Southern Nationals many times. Glad to see Routy getting some well deserved press

Getting ready to head out to the MCACN show in Chicago next week. The Show is Saturday and Sunday the 19th-20th. I am giving up opening week end of deer season for this so you know it must be a killer of a show. Stop by and say hello if anyone is at the show.
Steve

Look what showed up in the mail today?
We got the cover!
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Routy/march_180-2.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Routy/march_181.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Routy/march_182.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Routy/march_183.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae271/sprouty64/Routy/march_184.jpg)

Awesome news, Steve!    We'll have to run out and get a copy (or 100) as soon as they reach the stands!    Looks great!

From SEMA 2010...

(http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/tech/hppp_1105_sema_pontiac_performance_parts/36123216+pheader_460x1000/hppp_1105_01+SEMA_pontiac_performance_parts_guide.jpg)

The V8TV Crew did it again. This time taking home not one but two Gold awards at... the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals!!!!! Congrats to 68 Camaro "Reloaded" owner Pete Kurpiewski and 69 Firebird "Routy" owner Steve Prouty for both scoring over 990 points out of 1000 in the modified Muscle Car class. The Camaro scored 993 in its first judged show, while the Firebird scored 997 adding more hardware to Proutys giant trophy case. Thanks to a great crew for their hard work and to Pete and Steve for letting us build their dream cars!!!!

(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301999_10150468352040923_184624995922_10960868_928189962_n.jpg)

Beautiful job,

I am restoring a 69 and bought the video for inspiration and guidance.  I too plan on using the Magnaflow transverse exhaust system and noticed that when it was originaly installed the tailpipes exited behind the wheels, yet later in the video they appeared to exit at the bumper.  When visiting the Magnaflow site it appeared that they only sell a kit for the rear wheel exit setup.  Do you have a kit number for the bumper exit configuration.

Very impressive car

Now YOU have a chance to OWN Routy!

That's right, Steve is going to run the car through the Mecum auction in Indy... here's the listing:

http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=SC0512-126255&entryRow=33&lottype (http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=SC0512-126255&entryRow=33&lottype)

Just under one month to go for the auction. Tell your friends!

I've been telling my friends!     I've also been trying to make new friends who are huge Pontiac fans and have lots of $$!

In that case any friend or yours is a friend of mine.

Less than a week untill the big day. Make sure to watch it sell on Friday at 6:05 ish lot number F292. ( or even better come and bid on it.)

I'll be watching.  Good luck!