The motor we are using for our Thunderbird is the new Coyote 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang. In this video we'll show you some of the cool features of the 5.0 motor. We also get the motor mounted between the frame rails and install the Turn Key Engine Supply Road Runner power steering pump and pulleys.

In this final video of our 4 part engine build series for our 1968 Camaro, "Reloaded", we're gonna take a step back and talk about the parts that make this motor run. First, We do a resistance test on our MSD plug wires. We also discuss our FAST EZ EFI System and show you just how easy it is to set up the FAST EZ-EFI ECU and EZ-TCU. And finally, we fire up this big block and the Camaro moves under its own power for the first time in 25 years!

In this chapter, we'll show you the engine build for our 1968 Camaro, "Reloaded". This time we'll be dropping our motor into place and installing the TCI Super Street Fighter 4L80E transmission. We'll also take you through the steps of putting in our Be Cool Radiator, making MSD plug wires and setting up the MSD Digital E-Curve, plumbing the fuel lines using Earl's Hoses and the Eastwood Flare Tool, installing the FAST EZ-EFI throttle body, and putting Royal Purple fluids in everything.

Looks like great progress! The '59 is progressing... We have lots of updates coming on the car.      We'll post 'em up soon.   

Our '68 Camaro "Reloaded" was primed and sanded, and now body tech Nathan Newberry applied several layers of BASF epoxy sealer to the car followed by Glasurit 55 Line Polyester Base Coat in "Silver Bullet" silver. Here's the process he took to make sure the color went down properly.

It's just a plastic (or cast metal) tree?   Not one that mounts in the manifold?   Sometimes the ones that screw into the manifold are actually vacuum switches that change the vacuum levels based on engine temp.     If it's just the free-floating tree, try a NAPA or good independent parts store.. bring your old one in and they'll help you match one up. 

It sounds like that was a symptom.   Of course, once that's fixed, it's time to re-time the car with the gauge and light to see if the vacuum leaks were affecting engine vacuum.   I'm also not convinced you had optimum timing... it's tricky to find the sweet spot.      There's a chance I might be in your neighborhood next week for a few... maybe I could look at it in person?

They don't need to be super tight.     I think that's what happened in your case.    They should have a nyloc nut on the end, and should be snug on the bushings, and maybe 1/2 turn after that.   

OK, I've seen this before.    Sometimes when they are over-tightened, they can crack and slip out.    Any chance they were torqued too much?    Urethane bushings are more prone to this than rubber, 'cause urethane can crack.   

All those little leaks add up, man.

Only after those are corrected will we make some assessments of other parts.

As for the sway bar bushings, are we taking about the frame mounts or the end links?

If frame, are they the (or were they) the correct diameter for the bar?   Were the saddles loose?

More great news, Mike!

First, get that thing to an alignment shop as soon as possible to get 'er pointed in the right direction.

As for the brakes, check the basics.    Do you have a good vacuum connection to the manifold?   No splits in the hose?   No kinks in the hose?   It's crucial to get this right.

Next, remember that new brakes take some time to bed & seat.   Baer recommends 30 / 30 , 30 stops from 30 MPH with some time to cool in between.     Realizing that's a tall order, remember that it does take some time.

Next, I'd double check the bleed... maybe go around once more just to be absolutely sure you're rock solid.

Also - you'll need to confirm that the brake pushrod is depressing the master cylinder piston all the way.     If the pushrod is adjustable and too short, or a mismatch with the new parts, you might not be depressing that piston all the way into the unit and might still have some brake action left on the table.   

These are my initial thoughts.    Let me know how it goes!

Great news!    And you have a pretty good time cushion to go shake things out!    Please post up a video update if you get to take it for a spin soon!

Glad the brake bleed worked for you.    There are many ways to do it, but that one works for us.

Thanks for the link, I've always wanted to watch that!

Cool.

Nice, with soundtrack!

Once all the sheet metal had been put back on and the gaps had been set, our Camaro was ready for body work. Nathan covered each panel in Marson body filler, then sanded them down to reveal high spots. He also took some time to shape the fiberglass hood and wing. Once he was happy with the shape of the car, he covered the whole thing in BASF Glasurit Sprayable Body Filler. After some more sanding, the car was ready for primer. Next time, sealer and base coat!