Royal Purple SAE 0W20 is now available at Pep Boys - Manny, Moe & Jack, the first national retailer to stock it! 0W20 is becoming an increasingly more OE-recommended viscosity. Royal Purple’s API-licensed SN motor oil meets ILSAC GF-5 and Dexos1™* performance requirements. Available viscosities include: 0W-20, 0W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40 and 20W-50 weights. Royal Purple also offers mono-grade motor oils in SAE 30, SAE 40 and SAE 50 weights.
That's a nice gauge layout, those look really good. What are you going to use for the face material?
As for the GTO seats, you're doing great work there, too. We cannot stress enough how important it is to reuse the captured bolt / stud mounting system like you're doing. Many people just drill a hole in the floor and bolt the seats down... imagine if the car got hit and the seat rips from the floor. In our case, I'd probably be driving and the bolt would pull through and I'd go right through a school bus or something.
Are you going to keep the full height of the rear seats? While comfy, I personally feel they are a bit overwhelming visually, but that's just me. We get the request to install these in cars often, so we appreciate you posting the pics of what it takes and how it looks so we can show people what the process will be.
It looks like you and Mrs. Pontiac Ken are having fun with the car, and you've got Jr. involved too... cool to see!
Those brackets look pretty nice, that seems like a decent conversion kit!
Unfortunately, you've come across one of our standing shop rules.. always open the box and check part #s to the list as soon as the box arrives... it never fails, by the time you have a few hours set aside to do some work, you have the wrong part in the box. Of course, when you check them in advance, they are never wrong!
Great work, Mike. You're right, that bleed needed to happen. Old fluid gels up like snot in brake hoses, and all kinds of bad things can happen. Imagine if you didn't do the front brake swap and tried to drive the car on Power Tour with that blocked rear hose... bad things, my friend, bad things.
Those wrenches are nice. Good guy, your neighbor. The booster looks much better, hopefully it works well, too.
Back to vacuum tuning.. you're idle is controlled by the screw on the throttle linkage as well as the two on the front of the carb. Those control idle mixture. Have you messed with those yet? The trick is to turn one at a time in (to close the passage) until the car stumbles, then back it out to see highest RPM / vacuum. Once the idle speed / vaccum fall off from having the screw too far backed out, turn it back in to peak levels and leave it. Then do the same with the other. The idle speed on the throttle linkage is to fine-tune once that's done. You may have done it this way, but I just am trying to armchair quarterback from afar.
The popping and hard starting mean it's a little too far advanced. Like I said, you'll find optimum vacuum and probably have to back it off a few degrees to fix the stumble. As you noticed, the idle is probably about 350 RPM too high, so I'd back off the timing until it no longer pops, then reset the idle to about 700 rpm or so. It should fall to about 650 in gear with your foot on the brake. If you can get it to do that, I'd finish the brakes and go for a test drive to see how it feels. What kind - and how old - of gas do you have in the car?
DISCLAIMER: Demonstrations and procedures contained in the V8TV show or
website may not provide all necessary or relevant information.
Applicable local laws and regulations may vary and should be checked
before any project is commenced. Be sure to follow all applicable safety
procedures. V8TV Productions, Inc. makes no warranties, expressed or
implied, as to the completeness, accuracy, or practicality of any such
demonstration or procedure or any information with respect thereto
contained in the preceding program. c. 2012, V8TV Productions, Inc.
To set the timing, you want to use a manifold vacuum source. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line on the distributor. Start 'er up, let it warm up to get off high idle, and at idle, adjust the distributor until you see some good vacuum numbers. Note the pointer on the vac gauge, if it's bouncing or jumping, you might have a stuck / burnt valve, but your engine sounded pretty smooth. You should probably see numbers around 17in or so with a fairly stock cam. Bone stockers will pull 20-21 inches of mercury. You might find that the RPM is climbing as you turn the distributor to see better vacuum numbers. This is normal. If you find a spot where vacuum is good, check the timing with the light just to know what it is, and you might have to adjust carb idle down (or up) to have it idling in the good timing range. Then, reconnect the vacuum advance mechanism, then rev the car up a few times with the timing light attached to verify that your vacuum advance is working. You should see the timing mark move towards advance with increased RPM.
I'd time the car using a vacuum gauge. The numbers on the balancer might not be accurate any more if it's old and the ring moved. Let's hope it didn't jump the chain, or you'll have some more work to do.
Just adjust timing until you see the highest vacuum reading and you're good. You might need to back it off a little from the highest reading if it detonates.
As for bleeding, I have a system that works pretty well.. first q: do you have help?
New Hooker Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds For GM LS Engines
Holley Performance Products is proud to announce their Hooker brand LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds.
The Hooker LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds are the perfect solution for exhaust in a tight engine bay or where the maintenance-free characteristics of manifolds are desired. They are designed to hug close to the engine block so they fit into a wide variety of replacement and engine–swap applications. Their contoured design aims the exhaust directly at the exit port for improved flow. Being cast iron means they will provide years of leak–free performance with less under hood noise than traditional headers. Plus, their shorty design means you can route exhaust tubing close to your frame and floor pan for maximum ground clearance. The manifolds are available in five finish options including Cast Iron Gray Ceramic, Silver Ceramic, Titanium Ceramic, Black Ceramic, and as cast.
For more information contact Holley Tech Service, 1801 Russellville Road, Bowling Green, KY 42101. Telephone 270-781-9741. For nearest dealer: 1-800-HOLLEY-1. Or visit them on the web at [url=http://www.HookerHeaders.com]www.HookerHeaders.com[/url].
Sounds good, even on 7 holes! Sounds like a RAIV cam on 7. Not familiar with a '77 TA running points either. But these are the joys of the parts store.
Show Posts
Join MSD for MSD's 8th Annual Employee Picnic/Car Show! 
Download