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Author Topic: 1966 Dodge Charger - Restoration  (Read 20059 times)
Kevin O
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« Reply #15 on: August 08, 2010, 02:50:44 PM »

Sounds like a plan.   You're going to fab your own connectors?    Take some pics of the process!
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Bones
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« Reply #16 on: August 08, 2010, 08:09:04 PM »

Sounds like a plan.   You're going to fab your own connectors?    Take some pics of the process!

Will do   Wink
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cotonymopar
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« Reply #17 on: August 09, 2010, 02:32:35 PM »

Sweet 66 charger... I am currently working on a 67 charger... Has some rear quarter issues, but the rest is great, as in rust wise. I have a couiple dents in the front fenders...

I love to see girst gen charger restos.... I am currently working on a 512 engine to replace the old 383 that was slowly dieing..

Keep up the great work!
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Bones
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« Reply #18 on: August 09, 2010, 03:16:07 PM »

Keep up the great work!

Thanks! There is a lot of info around for our cars if you know where to look. Let me know if you need any help finding something.
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Kevin O
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« Reply #19 on: August 09, 2010, 05:24:23 PM »

Hey guys,

Did you see this one?   The 2nd half of the video is a feature we shot on a '66 about 5 years ago...
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Kevin O
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« Reply #20 on: August 09, 2010, 05:28:01 PM »

And don't forget Strope's "Skully" Charger... I had a 200 mile ride-along with Steve back in '98 or so in this car, it was a nice driving car.   

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Bones
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« Reply #21 on: August 09, 2010, 11:36:18 PM »

Very nice chargers. With the chrome trim being a nice highlight I'm not sure how I feel about the silver color... kinda makes all the chrome blend in .

Can't wait until I get mine back on the road though. man it will be nice to drive it again!   Grin
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Kevin O
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« Reply #22 on: August 10, 2010, 06:41:43 AM »

Yeah, the painted bumpers give it a '90s look, and these cars have great brightwork on them.    Yours will look great in black!
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Bones
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« Reply #23 on: August 12, 2010, 05:19:21 PM »

So I hit a little snag in the sub frame connector install. I chose to use 1/4" tubing and steel plates but the 120 MIG welder the body shop has was not penetrating my test plate very well. Had it cranked up as high as it would go. I need a 220 to make sure I get it nice and secure in one go so I don't risk screwing up the frame with crappy welds. Here are a few pics of the connectors I cut:



I chose to go with a steel plate that had a few holes drilled in it for some puddle welds. Going to stich weld the paremeter and puddle weld each plate.

I also took some time to grind off a few bolts some incompetent exhaust installer welded to my frame. he didnt even weld them in the same spot on each side of the car.... looked terrible.






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Kevin O
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« Reply #24 on: August 13, 2010, 07:55:53 AM »

Yep, you'll find lots of little previous mods and repairs to fix along the way on this project.    Keep your standards high my friend!

As for welders, you'll need a good one to do that kind of work.    If you have 220 power in the garage, I recommend the HTP MIG200 all day long.   We've built every car with one of those, and it's just as hot and reliable today as it was when we pulled it out of the crate 5 years ago.   www.usaweld.com .
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