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Author Topic: 1967 LeMans  (Read 16918 times)
pontiacken
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« Reply #45 on: September 21, 2011, 07:18:22 PM »

I got a little more done and I mean only a little! The front is taking alot more time than I thought it would even with all of the preperation work that I did before sending the frame out.

First on the list was to repair the connector on the Shockwave. Once I found a youtube video to see how the pins worked in this connector then it was no problem. Mini pick, soldering iron and a pair of needle nose pliers and I was back in business.


Sorry I forgot to take a picture of the finished connector by itself  Embarrassed

Second was to figure out the stress relief for the other end of this same pigtail comming out of the Shockwave.


After playing around with different ideas for a little while longer I found that I could use a zip tie to attach the cable to the air port and that would keep the end of the cable suspended and put the connector right in line with were it was to exit the spring pocket.




Here is a pic of both the air line and the ride height cable exiting the spring pocket.


Shockwave now installed and inflated. This is where I finished last night.


More later this week!!
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Ken West
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« Reply #46 on: September 28, 2011, 07:47:22 AM »

finished up with the Ride Tech front suspension last night so these pics are not the best.

First, I had to figure out how and where to run the shock valving control cable from the top of the shock and eventually to the inside of the body and under the dash. I wanted to keep it out of the way of brake lines, transmission cooling lines, hot headers, etc. I ended up drilling and tapping a hole for an Adel clamp to route the cable back into the spring pocket and exit with the height control cable. It rus with a big enough loop to not be in the way when it comes time to do a front end alignment. Once that was figured out and done then I installed the upper ball joints and the tall spindles. Then came the very unforgiving but AWSOME looking front Muscle Bar installation.




So here is where it sits now.


I have not found any after market steering arms any better than the originals so I will have them blasted and powdercoated before installation. Will be ordering a KORE 3 Brake Kit to install in the front and back along with a new steering box and some other steering linkage parts I have decided to replace.
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Ken West
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« Reply #47 on: October 04, 2011, 07:51:01 AM »

I will be obligated the next 2 nights so I wanted to get some work done - stayed up to 2am. Boy today is going to last forever. Anyway I mocked up the AirPod and routed all the cables and airlines from the Shockwaves.

Here is almost exactly where the AirPod will sit on the trunk "shelf" area in relation to the frame so I put a couple a boards under it for stability and got after it.


After connecting every wire, cable and airline I connected the system to a battery and let the tank fill. Once it filled up to 150 psi I aired up each Shockwave. I let them sit for awhile to see if I had any bad leaks. Only leak was at the primary compressor on the AirPod at the outlet. A quick trim on the line and reseating it into the connector took care of the problem.

Next, I started routing all the Shockwave cables and airlines to clean things up a bit and get them closer to where they will be in (hopefully) their final location.

I have this thing about not wanting to drill holes if I do not have to. I am always looking at what the factory has already provided and work with that as much as possible. So on the rear I ran the cables and airlines though the holes at the top of the spring pockets using a grommet


Added a little stress relief and guide to the height control cable with a zip tie. The shock valving control cable dressed and aligned itself nicely without any outside influence other than the snugness of the grommet.




When the cables and lines come out on the other side they will enter the trunk area directly above and as this pic shows they should enter right next to each side of the Air Pod. This should be an easy route and dress once the body is back on the frame.


Next came the airlines and cables from the front Shockwaves. I ended up putting a wire loom over each set of airline/cable and ran them through the frame rails to an existing ovalish hole in the rail just before the rear crossmember. I left the shock valving control cable exiting the frame in the front as these cables plug into a box that will be under the dash. I will run the rear ones through the body to the front.






Believe it or not that and a few little clean up jobs took 5 hours to complete. Here is where it sits now.


There is not much else I can do with the AirRide until I get some wheels on the front. Hope to have my brakes ordered by next week. Until then I will continue planning out the fuel and brake lines as well as giving more thought to the interior. - Ken
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Ken West

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« Reply #48 on: November 04, 2011, 02:43:56 PM »

I was attacked by a bad bug of some kind and basicly lost almost all of October for doing much of anything productive at home or work. But I am finally back at doing at least a little.

New 12:1 steering box from AGR mounted as well as the linkage. I had a set of Baer Tracker  tie rod ends (bump steer reduction) and regular style tie rod ends. Air Ride says there spindles help reduce bump steer so I quess that the amount of usefullness from the Baer Trackers will be minimized. So I have a question for you out there in V8TV land - Strickly on the aesthetic side which do you like better?

Baer Tracker tie rod end


Regular tie rod end


One on each side for comparison


Kore 3 brakes starting to go on as well. Man they are alot bigger than the '67 factory ones




Almost to the point of mounting the engine and transmission again. Once that is done the body will have to be set again so I can figure out how much pounding needs to be done to the trans tunnel. I will also be able to make up the complete brake and fuel lines as well. Will post more as I go along.
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Ken West
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« Reply #49 on: November 08, 2011, 12:55:22 PM »

No replies on the tie rod ends and I am so far behind now I am moving on.
I choose the regular style tie rod ends with the billet adjusters from ridetech.








A few little items left and then it will be time for the motor and trans to be reinstalled for final placement. Then the job of putting the body back on for trans tunnel modification.

Back to work!
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« Reply #50 on: November 08, 2011, 07:24:54 PM »

Ken,

The chassis looks great!    Sorry for the delay in replies, we've been (and still are) on the road from SEMA.   

I agree with your choice of the tie rod ends, the Baer pieces are functional, but they look a little strong for a street car.

We're looking forward to seeing the next phase, please post some pics with the engine / trans on the chassis!

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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
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« Reply #51 on: November 09, 2011, 06:41:51 AM »

No worries Kevin. I have been following the updates and it looks like you guys had a pretty good show out there. Thank you for producing all those videos interviewing the manufactures for those of us that will never get a chance to enter that extravaganza known as SEMA!
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Ken West
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« Reply #52 on: November 14, 2011, 11:13:00 AM »

The weekend was very busy-Just not for the LeMans. With the help of my oldest son and my new "Bubbafied" Pastor we did get the motor and trans put in place:




I sure am glad that I spent the time to loom the suspension wiring and air lines then run them thru the chassis rails. It sure going to clean things up with only having to have a single brake line running exposed down the chassis on one side and a single fuel line down the other.



I did not have the time to finalize how I will secure the trans xmember to the perches yet.


Time is already getting to be a premium and I am sure that will continue until the New Year.
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Ken West
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« Reply #53 on: November 14, 2011, 12:41:59 PM »

Looks great Ken!    Very clean!
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
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« Reply #54 on: December 06, 2011, 06:09:26 AM »

Ken, what beautiful work you do!  It's going to be a real shame to have to cover it with the body.  Nearly everything you're doing to your Lemans, I dream of doing to my GTO.  I'm very eager to see the final results.  Keep up the GREAT work!!  Cheers to you, sir. 
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO


pontiacken
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« Reply #55 on: January 21, 2012, 05:51:08 PM »

Thanks Kevin and Qball!

Holidays are past and a couple of days of nice weather and with the help of good friends and low and behold some work got done!

Finished removing the remaining dash, sterring column, accelerator & brake pedals, ac/heat system, doors, all wiring and glass with the exception of the rear windshield.









Removal of the rear windshield and then it will be time to put the body shell back on the chassis for transmission tunnel modifications.

Two days later:
A bit cooler today but 600 watts of light will keep you warm!

Removed the trunk lid for the last time


Then finally dropped the gas tank










Just have the rear windshield and radio antenna and back on the frame the shell goes.
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Ken West
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« Reply #56 on: February 01, 2012, 10:09:13 AM »

Inspected the floor pans and gave them the screwdriver and awl puncture test with the following results:

Driver side front-not to bad


Driver side rear-not to bad either


Passanger side front-as expected with the heater core on that side it is bad.


Fortunatly there is no damage in the passanger rear floor pan. YEAH!!! Cheesy

Front winshield channel-top is bad


Rear winshield channel-the filler plate between windshield and trunk had been replaced before and there is alot of bono in here. I have a new filler panel to replace this one due to the last repair is not very good.


Started planning out the interior mods.

Dash cluster planning


Also I purchased some seats from a '06 GTO to update the interior:


OK I got to get back to work. Will update more later.
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Ken West
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« Reply #57 on: February 01, 2012, 04:09:17 PM »

It looks like your floors are right on the edge.     My guess is that they will reveal many more holes after media blasting.   Not what you wanted to hear, I know, but we see it all the time.     

The good thing is that floor pans are pretty cheap for that car, and not a terrible job when it's all apart like that.

Looking forward to seeing what you do in the dash!

Cool seats, too... what color is this one going to be? 
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
pontiacken
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« Reply #58 on: February 06, 2012, 06:29:59 AM »

I think I am getting close to the layout for the gauge selection and layout in the dash. I'm looking at Autometer Cobalt gauges. Tach, speedo, water temp, oil pressure, volt, fuel and trans temp. New round a/c vents, push to start button and Ridetech E3 controller and Select Series shock mode button are in place as well. Still looking for the best way to do signal, highbeam and CEL lights. I would like to use LEDs for these if possible but I do not want just round lights on the dash. I would still like to have arrows for signals an engine symbol for the CEL and so on. Also, I am looking for a differnt style headlight switch and dimmer control. All of this to keep in the "old body with modern technology" idea. Any comments or recommendations are very welcomed. - Ken
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Ken West
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« Reply #59 on: February 06, 2012, 06:43:22 AM »

http://files.thehoffmangroup.com/catalog/KeepItClean/#/30/

Check out this page out of the Keep It Clean Wiring catalog, or go to their home page and download the catalog.     They have lots of customizable LEDs for dashboards, push-button start kits, and a lot of other cool stuff.

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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
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