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Author Topic: Project "Get my GTO back on the road" has commenced!  (Read 3926 times)
Qball
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« on: February 20, 2012, 06:20:24 PM »

The nice UPS man stopped by earlier today with some parts from Summit.  Starting things off is a disc brake kit, front sway bar and from Rock Auto a set of Raybestos HD front springs.  Still to come are tubular upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, an idler arm and KYB gas-adjust shocks for the front and rear.  Hopefully this will let the old goat turn a corner a bit flatter and not so much like a cruise ship. 

This disc brake kit came with everything necessary to complete the conversion, so says Summit.  It was well packaged and is chock full of grade 8 bolts. 


This sway bar is big!  It came with poly sway bar and end link bushings.


A big thanks goes to Kevin Oeste for giving me some good parts advice.  I owe ya one!

Wish me luck in getting it ready in time for the Power Tour!
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
Kevin O
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2012, 11:24:12 AM »

Power Tour?   You've got months Mike!   No Problem!     

The parts look great, they are going to make a nice improvement on how the Goat drives!    Keep us posted!
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com


Qball
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2012, 03:38:27 PM »

Will do!  Ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, adjuster sleeves and idler arm came today.  Looking for shocks and control arms tomorrow! 
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO

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Steve Firebird
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2012, 06:33:31 PM »

This is great! Keep the updates coming and good luck with the project. Steve
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Qball
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2012, 02:25:43 PM »

Here's a bit of progress.  I received everything I ordered much to the delight of the UPS guy.  I started in today and made a bit of head way.  I got the upper and lower control arms, spring and spindle for the driver side.  I still have to remove all the passenger side stuff.  One question, though.  With things as they are now, and the floor jack in not supporting the lower control arm, I can't budge/rotate the spindle at all.  If I place the floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up a bit, I can rotate it bit it's fairly snug.  Is this normal or do I have a problem?

Here's a pic:
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO


Kevin O
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2012, 07:46:33 AM »

That's pretty normal.    It's kind of hard to rotate new ball joints under load in the full droop position.    Once they wear in a little and they are at ride height, they'll turn easier.    Right now, you want them stiff... loose is bad.   

Nice work, keep it up!
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
Qball
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2012, 10:29:18 PM »

Thanks, Kev.  Well, after helping my girls with their homework, I snuck out to the garage to make more head way.  I was able to remove all the passenger side stock gear and bring it to the level of the driver side.  So I have, on both sides, the upper and lower control arms, springs, spindles, inner and outer tie rods.  Tomorrow, I'll start with the power booster and master cylinder and then start getting the brakes together. 

I'm finding little things that are making me shake my head at this car.  When I was removing the sway bar, one of the bolts that held one of the brackets had a nut behind it, inside the flippin' frame rail!  The bolt hole was stripped so rather than tap a new thread someone managed to get a nut in there.  By the grace of God, there was a factory hole in the frame that just let me get an offset wrench on the nut to remove the bolt.  Some people's kids, I'll tell you what...

Other than that, it went fairly smooth, so far.  Installing new springs is a bitch, though.  The spring compressor I used was hideous.  I had to partially disassemble it to get it out of the coil spring.  OY!

I have a feeling it's going to be a bit high in the front.  I hope not, but I think it is.  There's no way in hell I'm going to remove those springs and cut them.  I'll get drop spindles first.  Okay, it's late and I'm rambling and have to work tomorrow.  I'll get some pics up when I get more done.
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
Kevin O
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« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2012, 07:49:51 AM »

Mike,

Sounds like the typical joys of front end work.      We usually find the original 5/16" sway bar bushing mount holes are stripped or trashed, or that the new larger bar mount does not align with the original holes.      In our case, if the metal is clean enough, we like to drill and tap them to 3/8" bolts for a better grab.    With that big bar, I'm going to guess you'll need to upsize / move at least one of the holes.

We have also added a spacer plate between the frame and the bushing to lower the bar away from the frame 1/8" or so, sometimes the larger bushing mounts just don't fit right or the bar wants to contact something and a spacer fixes all that.

As for the springs, it's also standard procedure around here to set ride height once it's all together... the springs usually need a trim.    I'd go with that over dropped spindles.   I know it's a pain, but they go back in much easier once a coil or two have been trimmed!    You probably won't even need the spring compressor.     Hopefully you'll only have to cut 'em once...

You bending up new brake lines?
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
Qball
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« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2012, 08:02:57 AM »

Kevin,

Thanks for the tips!  As far as bending new brake lines goes, I wasn't really planning on it.  The Summit kit came with a couple of lines that were pre-flared with fittings.  I assume those are necessary for plumbing the proportioning valve.  What are your thoughts?  I haven't flared lines in ages and would hate to muck that up.  

Also, where would you recommend I source the proper automotive 3/8 bolts for the sway bar.  I'm definitely going to be doing that.  I need new lower Shock mount bolts, as well. 
« Last Edit: February 28, 2012, 08:05:58 AM by Qball » Logged

Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
Kevin O
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« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2012, 02:22:29 PM »

There are a couple good ways to go on the bolts.    Sway bar bolts aren't under severe loads, but you want to make sure it stays put.    One slick way to go is order some ARP studs and thread the stud into the hole, and use washers / nuts to tighten them down.     Whatever you do, I wouldn't go less than a grade 8 bolt.   ARPs are available at Summit, standard grade 8s can be found at hardware stores, but try to get US made stuff.     Same goes for the shock bolts.

After checking your pics, it looks like you're covered on brake lines as far as flaring goes, but you'll have to bend 'em around to make it all fit nice.     You can possibly fit everything without cutting & flaring.     You'll know when you get into it!
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
Qball
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« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2012, 01:28:43 PM »

A bit more progress while the kids were at school.  I got the brake assemblies installed on both sides.  One question, on both sides, the pads are dragging a bit.  The driver side isn't too bad but the passenger side is really tight.  I can still turn the rotor by hand but it's tough to do.   Do you thing this will even out as I drive or do you think I gots me a problem?









That's it for today, next item up for bids is the sway bar.  Kevin, I picked up some grade 8, 3/8" bolts for that monster.  Thanks for the tip on that. 
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
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« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2012, 10:27:52 AM »

Mike,  some drag like that is normal, provided there's not a bolt rubbing the rotor or some weird thing going on.    Once you get wheels & tires on again, it will turn easier by hand.    After they have had fluid in them and they have been bled / cycled, they'll even out and will be just fine.


Great progress!
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
Qball
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« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2012, 02:20:38 PM »

Mike,  some drag like that is normal, provided there's not a bolt rubbing the rotor or some weird thing going on.    Once you get wheels & tires on again, it will turn easier by hand.    After they have had fluid in them and they have been bled / cycled, they'll even out and will be just fine.


Great progress!

That's great to hear.  I'm going to get the rear shocks on tonight and then I'll put my tires back on and take a shot of the stance and post it up. 
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
Qball
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« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2012, 07:22:30 PM »

I got the rear shocks in and mounted the wheels and tires and got 'er on the ground to look at the ride height.  As I suspected, it's a bit high in the front.  Oh well, It should be a blast tearing it all apart to cut the springs.  Arrrgh!  Angry 



On a up note, the front does feel much stiffer than before.  I haven't installed the sway bar, yet, so it's easy to compress the springs on one side or another but if done together, it barley budges.  So I got that goin' for me, which is nice.  The rears feel fairly soft, however.  They're stock springs.  Are stiffer rear springs available that won't lower the rear anymore than it is? 

It feels great to have it on the ground.  It seems so short after having it up on jackstands for over a year!   
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Mike - Plainfield, IL
1967 GTO
Kevin O
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« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2012, 08:20:42 AM »

Great news, Mike!

The car looks awesome, I love the color.

The front is a little high, I agree, but it will come apart easier since it's just been loosened up. 

As for the rear springs, "stiffer" does not always mean "better handling."    Springs need to be compliant to allow the suspension to do it's thing.    I wouldn't worry about the rear yet... get the front height set, front sway bar in, bleed the brakes, then go drive it around and see how it feels.    You might not have to change a thing.

Can't wait to see the finished project IN PERSON! 
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Kevin Oeste,  V8TV www.v8tvshow.com
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