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Author Topic: 62 Galaxie questions  (Read 11263 times)
jgbrueck
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« on: February 12, 2008, 09:28:30 AM »

Kevin,

           Great site, I visit often to see updates.  Had a question or two on your '62 Galaxie, as I have a '63.5 that I'm slowly modifying:

1) What brakes are you running on the fronts (and rears for that matter) on yours?  I see they're aftermarket slotted rotors of some kind.  Are they on the std Galaxie spindle, or did you upgrade to a Granada spindle?   Reason I ask is that I've just ordered the Gearhead Cruiser tubular A-Arms as featured in 1 of your Galaxie updates, and I'm trying to see what brakes will work.  Baer and Wilwood need a Granada spindle to work, as well as several other brake options. 
2) With the new control arms and a 2" drop (either from spindle alone or spindle + shorter coil spring), what shocks/shock height do you recommend?  I assume stock-height ones are no longer optimal with a lowered suspension, just not quite sure which way to go...

Thanks!

Jeff Brueck
Gilbert, AZ
'69 Mach1
'63.5 Galaxie
'89 Firebird Formula
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Kevin O
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2008, 10:23:52 AM »

Hey Jeff,

Welcome to the site!

The front suspension on this car has been kind of a roller-coaster ride, to say the least.       We started with a Stainless Steel Brakes front disc conversion, but the kit placed the '67 Mustang style caliper on the front side of the stock spindle, and I believe it uses a Mustang style rotor with a spacer.     However, the front mount caliper means you cannot run a sway bar on the car, and I didn't like that aspect.    So I built my own caliper brackets and moved the calipers to the rear side of the spindles, and installed the sway bar.     The rear brakes are Stainless big-bearing Ford 9" to fit the rear axle.    I think they use a Lincoln Mark VII or T-bird caliper.   None of the brakes worked that great until the Hydroboost unit was installed!

We're still running the Gearheads upper control arms and rear sway bar, which is really a very nice piece.    We returned to the stock lower control arms because we had some ride height issues... it seemed that even with our 2" dropped Eaton springs, the tubular arms wanted to raise the car.     We sent the arms back to them, I don't know if they ever resolved it.

We run stock, cheap, Monroe shocks all the way around and the ride is great.    The stock shocks work fine with a 2" drop spring.   

Keep us posted... I don't have alot of time today, but I'll gladly work with you on more ideas later.

Thanks!

- KO

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jgbrueck
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« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2008, 12:48:13 PM »

Thanks Kevin for the info - I'm just starting out my "build" on my '63, and I'm trying to make some worthwhile improvements slowly while still driving it.  Your info gives me something to think about...  My car is (only, and "for now") a 352 auto - I'm building it to be a nice cruiser I'm not afraid to drive to CA or wherever, take the kids to get ice-cream, etc, etc. 

Thanks again,

Jeff
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Kevin O
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2008, 01:50:44 PM »

Then I'd suggest an overdrive setup and a Hydroboost unit as mandatory upgrades.     They make the car a million times better to drive.    Keep us posted on the project!

- KO
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jgbrueck
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2008, 03:26:29 PM »

Kevin - Thanks for all the input.  I have a couple of more silly questions - sigh.  Sorry this is wordy...

               When I'm installing the Gearheads Cruiser products control arms (I ordered both uppers and lowers), I want to replace springs/shocks, and upgrade to disk brakes all at the same time.  For brakes, I'm contemplating Baers or Wilwood - in a lot of ways SSBC would be easier, but I really don't like the look of their calipers.  Small, thing, but I know it would bug me.  I have Baers on my Mustang and they work great!  In order to to Baer's, I have to switch to a Granada spindle - I haven't been able to get an answer out of the Gearheads folks - I assume I won't have any geometry-binding issues with the switch, but I'd really hate to buy $2K worth of brakes and find out I do.  Any thoughts?

              Also, on overall stance - if I go with the Granada spindles, that should get me a 1.5" drop in the front, so I was thinking of a 1" drop spring to get me the "right" stance.  I saw your comment on the lowers raising your car - not sure if it will do that on the '63, since the suspension is slightly different, but in your opinion, how's the math?  Am I forgetting anything?  I know FatMan Fabrications makes a 3" drop Granada spindle, but that almost seems too low, unless the control arms compensate a little.  I'm so confused!!

Thanks,

Jeff
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Kevin O
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2008, 04:27:19 PM »

Hey Jeff,

I once had a set of Granada spindles, but I wasn't sure about the geometry on the front end.    At the time, when you compared the Granada spindle with the stock Galaxie spindle, the Granada appeared to have radically different camber, and I wasn't sure it was the  right approach.    I also tried a set of '73 T-bird / Cougar spindles, with the lure of large factory disc brakes, but again, the spindle just didn't look like a good replacement.     It turns out that others have used the Cougar piece and have not been happy.

The Gearheads lowers elevated the car because their spring perch was higher than stock and thus compressed the spring more, lifting the car.   It wasn't a geometry issue... be sure to check and compare your lowers to the new ones.   I have some photos with measurements I took to show the people at Gearheads the difference, but they claimed the arms were the same.    I ended up sending them the lowers back.   

I don't know what to tell you for the brakes.    I'm not sold on other spindles replacing the stockers just to get a caliper to fit.    I think the best route would be to make some brackets to get some C5 Corvette calipers on oversized Mustang rotors, and use a Hydroboost.     Then just use a lowering spring and you're there.     The key to the rotor is the ring-spacer that SSBC sells with their kit.. maybe you could source the spacer from them, get the rotor part number, and then see if a larger rotor is available.     I modified my caliper brackets as I stated in the earlier post, which wasn't hard to do.   

What's your time frame, and do you have a welder, plasma, etc?

Here's another option, Scarebird Mechanical makes some caliper brackets (and the spacer) to complete a disc conversion using stock spindles, but the calipers they use are pretty non-sexy single piston GM stuff.    I've been leaning on them to make the brackets for C4 or C5 calipers, but I'm not sure they're going to...



You can see their stuff at:

http://scarebird.com/mediac/400_0/media/GXY~with~bracket.JPG

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jgbrueck
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2008, 06:42:53 PM »

Kevin,

        I'm reviving an old thread - still working (albeit slowly) on my '63.5 Galaxie.  I'm in the middle of installing the GearHeads Cruiser Products control arm set - both uppers and lowers (I think).  I noticed your video of the install on your Galaxie has been removed, and I was hoping I could sneak a peek at it again just to refresh my memory...  Any way you could re-post for a couple of days, or email it to me?

        Also - 1 more question - what sway-bar are you running?  There are reports that I won't be able to re-use the stock sway-bar (not that I'd want to anyway, small as it is).  Do I have to upgrade to the Gearheads unit, or will anything else fit?

Thanks!

Jeff B
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Kevin O
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2008, 07:51:38 PM »

Hey Jeff,

I've added the upper and lower control arm install videos here for you.     As for the sway bar, I'm actually running an old Quickor suspension Galaxie bar.    I don't know if they still make them, but the front is a large bar.    If I recall, the Gearheads front bar is made to work with their lower arms, through the use of some right-angle tabs you need to mount to the arms.    I don't know if a stock or stock replacement bar will work, but I'm not sure why it wouldn't.    The Quickor bar mounted in the stock locations.   

The rear of the car is running the Gearheads sway bar, and it's excellent!   

                   
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jgbrueck
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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2008, 02:04:20 PM »

Thanks Kevin - this is perfect.  Only reason I ask about the swaybar is that a couple of folks over on FordMuscle that have installed the Gearheads lower arms indicated that the stock one wouldn't fit (maybe since the lower arm raises the car a little?!?).  Not sure.

1 other silly question - it looks like I have to cut off maybe 1/4" of the "legs" on the top-hats - the part that goes on the inside of the frame.  If I set the hat on the mounting spot as is after I've ground down all the extra rivets, the back still sits up about 1/4" above being able to mount flat on the frame.  Looks like the "legs" are too long.  Does that sound familiar?  I have no problem doing it, I just want to make sure I'm looking at things correctly (the measure twice/cut once philosophy and all).

Thanks again for all the help!
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Kevin O
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« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2008, 07:41:30 AM »

I think I recall what you're talking about now... let me see what we did there and I'll get back to you.   
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jgbrueck
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« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2009, 11:35:09 AM »

Hi Kevin,

       Didn't want to post this in your roadtrip thread, but I noticed during your voltage regulator exploits that you're running a '63 Mercury gauge cluster in the '62, with the extra gauges down at the bottom.  I plan to do the same swap (I have a '64 Parklane cluster I'm going to prep to put in my '63.5 Galaxie 500XL). 
       My silly questions for today are:  I haven't actually taken the dash apart yet to see if it just slides in, but it looks like it should.  Did you have to do any mods to the get the gauge cluster to actually fit in there?  And...  Once it fits in, does the wiring harness have "extra' wires already in it for the extra gauges, and all I need are new sending units. or will I need to run all-new wiring for the extra gauges (or does it depend on options/etc)?

Thanks!  And I love the car!

Jeff
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« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2009, 08:34:52 PM »

Jeff,

We actually transplanted the entire 1963 Mercury dash into the '62.   This way, we got all the trim, the heater controls, the gauges, the whole shot.   It actually bolted in, but we had to modify the wiring connector pin-outs to match the ford, and the dash to door fit is a little off, but the rest was a very clean install.    I don't know if the Merc cluster will swap in your Galaxie dash, but the entire dash will swap in with a little work. 
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jgbrueck
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« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2009, 06:23:36 AM »

Makes sense - thank you sir!!  I'll give it a whirl with the gauge cluster alone (looks like it'll work like a charm)...  Worst comes to worst, I can always swap the whole dash, as you did.

Thanks!

Jeff

P.S. - I've heard tell of folks adapting a Radio Shack solid-state voltage regulator to these old Fords (12V down to 5.5V) - a guy over on the "Form Muscle" website was selling them for ~$15 apiece not too long ago...  I plan on investigating; probably more reliable than the parts-store ones.
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Kevin O
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« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2009, 07:33:51 AM »

Give it a shot.   The '63 Ford has a different hole than the '62, so yours might just slip right in.

The funny thing about the regulator is that we built a couple and even have a video on the site on how to do it, but we wanted to install it in a better case and never got it back in the car.    My own fault on that one!
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jgbrueck
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« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2009, 12:33:17 PM »

Doh!  You're right - I just found the video segment.  Now I feel sheepish for mentioning it...  You're way ahead of me (except for having 1 actually installed...  Smiley

Jeff

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