All the metal work on our 1968 Camaro project "Reloaded" was finally
done. The next step was to send the body tub to the sand blaster to find
any hidden rust. Once we got the car back, we repaired any rust we
couldn't find before and put the whole car in BASF Black Epoxy Primer and a 3M Accuspray paint gun. Next, gap adjustments and body work!
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Building a well handling car is all about the chassis. and we've already put
a Detroit Speed Coil Over conversion on our Camaro's front subframe and
installed one of their Quadralink systems on the rear end. Now its time
to connect the subframe and rear frame rails with a set of Detroit
Speed Subframe Connectors that fit tightly to the Camaros underside.
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One of the doors on our 1968 Chevrolet Camaro "Reloaded" pro-touring car build had a dented and rusty door skin, but the original inner structure was in good shape. We decided to re-skin the door with a new OER panel from Classic Industries using a slick door skin tool from Dent Fix and some 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive.
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The driver side frame rail on our '68 Camaro had a big crack in the arch
of the rail. Instead of trying to repair the rail in the car, we
removed the old one and replaced with it an OER frame rail from Classic Industries. In this video, we show you the removal process, fitting the
new piece, protecting the mating surfaces, and welding it in with our HTP MIG 200 welder.
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The cowl boxes on our 68 Camaro were very rusty, so we decided to
replace both using OER cowl box panels from Classic Industries. In this
video, we show you the steps to removing the old boxes, sealing the new
pieces with 3M Seam Sealer, and welding in the new ones using an HTP
Hole Punch tool and HTP MIG 200 welder.
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