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 Nitrous Oxide Systems makes a variety of styles of nitrous oxide systems... this time, we're showing you an NOS Fogger direct-port-injection style.
Nitrous Oxide Systems is an undisputed leader in high performance nitrous systems, and the Fogger is one of their most powerful and tunable systems. Nick Scavo is no stranger to NOS Fogger systems… he’s won hundreds of street car drag Races on NOS. Fogger systems can be a little tricky to create, however. Nick knows the tricks to make these systems look and perform great. 
We're strarting with an NOS Pro Race Fogger kit, part number 04462NOS, avaliable anytime from Summit Racing Equipment. It's a full Race system, and the direct injection nozzles offer the ultimate in combustion. Fogger kits are very complete, they come with just about everything you need to make a killer system. This kit came with the Fogger nozzles, jets, relays, solenoids, stainless lines, compression fittings, wiring, a 15-pound Nitrous bottle, and bottle mounting brackets.
Nick added a couple specialty tools to the mix to complete the job – a tubing bender and 37 degree flare tool from Imperial Eastman. Good quality tools make it easy to bend stainless tubing. Poor tools make bending stainless a real pain with discouraging results. These Imperial Eastman tools make it easy.
Fogger systems rely on a dual-jet nozzle inserted in each intake port on the intake manifold to inject the Nitrous Oxide and additional fuel into the engine. The Nitrous Oxide is really just an oxidizer that allows for more fuel to be burned, and therby more power to be made. This is why there are both fuel and nitrous oxide nozzles in these systems.
The first step is to install the Fogger nozzles. These are inserted directly into the manifold. Nick recommends that you have your intake manifold drilled and tapped at a machine shop to acoomodate the Fogger nozzles… this will ensure that the nozzles are all the same depth for performance, and that they’re all standing straight up for good looks and ease of installation. Nick coats the threads with a acouple drops of red thread locker to make sure they don’t come loose if you have to change jets in the future.
Next, he insterts the jets into the nozzles. Jets are mini restrictors that control the amount of fuel and nitrous allowed into each nozzle. Changing jets is a way to tune your power levels. Nick installes the jets now because they add physical thickness to the nozzle assembly, and he’s going to bend the new stainless feed lines to fit. 
Nick likes to make sure the carburetor and linkage are all installed at this point, so you don’t go through the hassle of making all the custom stainless lines only to find out they hit the linkage and don’t fit! 
Now it’s time to start making the custom stainless fuel and nitrous feed lines. Intake ports are not straight up and down, but Nick likes the lines to point straight up. The first lines go from the nozzles up to the distribution blocks, and our first bends correct the nozzles being on an angle.
Nick uses an Imperial Eastman tubing bender for all his systems. First, the collar is slid on the line to determine the length of the bent section. Next, Nick rolls the tube in the bender to put a slight bend in it. A quick check with the tube installed shows the bend makes the tube point straight up. Next, Nick makes the same bend in all the remaining tubes. He feels that it’s more efficient to make the same bend in each tube repeatedly, rather than create the whole line with multiple bends and then do the next one. By repeating the same bend in all four (or 8 tubes), Nick feels you establish a rhythm and work faster.
Next, the second bend can be made… it bends the tube 90 degrees to point towards the distribution block. Nick likes to use a spare piece of tube as a guide for the bender. By holding the spare piece exactly where the bend should occur, you can get a sense of where the tube to be in relation to the bender to make the bend radius occur where you want it. Nick’s using the top of the carburetor as a gauge – nothing can be higher than the carb, and it also helps Nick keep the lines parallel to it for a clean install.
Here you see the second bends made with the lines pointing toward the distribution block. Now Nick uses the inlet angle (45 degrees) on the distribution blocks as a target for where the next bends need to point the lines. These bends are now made.
Now Nick marks the length of the new tubes as they terminate in the distribution blocks. Nick uses a square to simulate the amount of clearance required to fit the solenoids and the distribution blocks. When this system is installed on the car, the valve cover would be where the swaure is. Again, pre-planning helps reduce the chance of doing things over again. Remember to accommodate for extra length of threads and fittings… Nick always marks the length at the end of the threads on the distribution block to make sure the tube is long enough.
Now you can perform the final install of the tube into the distribution block. The nitrous Solenoid attaches to the distribution block by threading into it.
The manufacturer recommends pipe paste to seal the threads… Nick likes Teflon tape. Here’s a word of caution, though… the manufacturer DOES NOT recommend you use Teflon tape, because if any Teflon tape fragment makes it’s way into the fuel or nitrous line, it can block a fuel or nitrous jet. Nick shows the proper way to use the tape… make sure none of it is covering the opening. If the tape blocks a nitrous jet, you’ll simply make less power in that cylinder. If the tape blocks a fuel jet, YOU BURN UP YOUR MOTOR. Be careful!
Once the lines are in place, you can work them around to make them all look precise. Feel free to bend them if needed… do whatever it takes to make them how you like. Finally, tighten them to the block. 
Now you can repeat the process with the fuel lines. The red fittings are for fuel. Nick again creates the first bend, then copies it on the bench to make them all consistant. The rest of the process is similar to the nitrous line install. 
When it's all said and done, the completed install is pretty trick looking. The tubes are all arranged nicely, and the increased power from the Fogger system will really make this car scream. The rest of the install includes running the line to the trunk mounted bottle and the switch and realy power wires. This system is fully tunable, and you can change the jets in the Fogger nozzles to tune each cylinder indifdually. Nick Points out that the best way to make power is to build 8 one-cylinder engines, not 1 eight cylinder engine. If each hole is Tuned to the max, you're engine will rock. This Fogger system will add an easy 300 horsepower to this Chevy! 
SOURCES NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS - (NOS)  Eastwood - Tubing Bender
DISCLAIMER: Demonstrations and procedures contained in the V8TV show or website may not provide all necessary or relevant information. Applicable local laws and regulations may vary and should be checked before any project is commenced. Be sure to follow all applicable safety procedures. The Men's Channel and V8TV Productions, Inc. make no warranties, expressed or implied, as to the completeness, accuracy, or practicality of any such demonstration or procedure or any information with respect thereto contained in the preceding program. © 2006 V8TV Productions, Inc.
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